FROM MAX PATCH, NC TO ALLEN GAP, TN
October 11-15, 2013
Peter and I have shared an enjoyment of
the outdoors and, in particular, backpacking, going back eons to
camping trips in the Florida Keys and the Smokey Mountains when we
were courting. After we moved to North Carolina, there were numerous
weekend backpacks in the nearby Smokey Mountains, usually, it seemed,
in the rain. Then there was winter camping in the deep snow of the
White Mountains of New Hampshire, car camping in the Canadian
Rockies, a fondly remembered two-week backpacking hike in the
Colorado Rockies, and a week of bicycling with our sons in Ireland
when we had light packs and pedaled between B&Bs.
However, life got busier with
increasingly demanding careers, growing a family, building a house,
running a hobby farm and sailing in the Great Lakes. Desired
activities all, of course, but what happened to the longer hikes?
Meanwhile, Peter's friend “Arthur Itus” made it increasingly
difficult for him to sleep on the ground and to carry the heavier
backpacks of thirty five years ago. Plus, we found ourselves
carrying a bit more weight even without packs.
Nevertheless, the attractions never
went away for walking off into the mountains for days or more, fully
self-sustained with food, water, shelter and clothing in a neat
little backpack.
Now retired, still busy, of course,
with sailing winters in the Caribbean (
www.svcharlotted.blogspot.com)
and summers in Cape Breton, we were motivated to “get back to
backpacking” by the dreams of Catherine's brother Joe as he
approached his own retirement. Joe dreamed of hiking the Appalachian
Trail, Georgia to Maine no less. Toward this goal and together with
his niece, nephew, and other family members, Joe learned about
backpacking and started hiking the Florida Trail. This was followed
by sectional hikes of the Appalachian Trail.
His enthusiasm was contagious, so we
followed his recommendation to study Andrew Skurka, “
The
Ultimate Hiker's Gear Guide”, about how to hike light. This
was just what we wanted for our aging joints! While not inspiring to
be “ultimate hikers”, we followed many of Skurka's
recommendations about how to hike light in comfort.
Efforts were made to shed body weight
and improve our general fitness. We conditioned on local hikes and
by cycling.
We found our gear online, and in the
showrooms of Bass Pro Shops, Eastern Mountain Sports, and L.L. Bean.
Sales personnel were patient with us. For example, at L.L. Bean,
they opened every available model of sleeping pad for Peter to test
on the showroom floor. We replaced all our old gear except
Catherine's backpack and her down sleeping bag. Clothes of newer
synthetic fabrics are big weight and space savers (no denim or
cotton). Low-cut trail shoes with short socks of marino wool
replaced above-the-ankle leather boots with high, thick wool socks.
We repacked our gear dozens of times to
limit our carried weight to 30 pounds each, “skin-out” (plus
water). We carried only one change of clothing and prepared for
cooler weather by “layering”. Most of our food was freeze-dried.
Some of these are better than others. They haven't yet formulated a
tasty powdered egg. Freeze-dried foods come in foil bags with room
for hot water for re-hydration. Water was heated with gas-fueled
“jet boil” stoves. One can eat direct from the bag (saves dish
washing), but because Peter and I shared one meal, we portioned it
out into collapsible bowls.
We slept in light-weight tents with
self-inflating ¾ length sleeping pads. Catherine used a down mummy
bag, zipped or unzipped. Peter used a down-filled sleeping quilt,
top only, no zipper. We carried LED headlights rather than
flashlights. A “thunder mug” eliminated the need to crawl out
of the tent in dark and/or rain to answer the “call of nature”.
Our packs did include a few luxuries. Peter carried a “mickey”
of Jim Beam. Jenny and Catherine enjoyed premixed margaritas and
wine from foil bags. We were glad to have a selection of tea-bags,
instant cappuccino and cocoa mixes.
Being in the forest is special for us.
There is, first and foremost, the quiet. Then there is the true
darkness of night without human lighting. Not to forget the majesty
of the treed mountains, rocks, brooks, birds, newts, and centipedes.
In fact, the whole astonishing diversity of flora and fauna. We
relish the freedom from commercialism and the “simple life”.
Ralph Waldo Emerson in “
Nature” , and Henry David Thoreau
in his “
Walden: or Life in the Woods” described these
experiences better than we could. The latter wrote, “How blind
that cannot see serenity”. It was everywhere along our hike.
This hike included brothers Joe and
Steve, niece Jenny, Peter and Catherine. In accord with AT custom,
we assumed “trail names”. Joe was White Socks, Jenny was
Juniper, Steve was Flatulent Frog, Peter was Eunoia and Catherine was
Ladybug.
It is traditional to sign shelter logs with trail names.
It was clear from the start that Ladybug and Eunoia would race to the
back of our group. Young Juniper was the leader of the pack and
carried a stick for clearing the morning spiderwebs. Thank you,
Juniper. Frog and White Socks alternated next.
Eunoia, Frog, Juniper and White Socks
played with various GPSs and other electronic toys. These modern
marvels guided us along the AT, noting highlights (water sources,
shelters, trail intersections) and topographical features.
These
toys, more or less replacing paper topographic maps, were helpful in
planning locations of over-night camps and meal stops. We didn't
have to carry much water as there were multiple water sources along
the way. You can see Ladybug and Juniper using a filter to collect
water before one night's camp.
The temperature ranged from 50 to 75
degrees F, very pleasant. We did not need all the clothes and gear
that we carried because it was dry and warm, but in the mountains one
never knows. We also carried medical and first aid supplies that we
were happy not to need. In the future, we will carry “fire-starter
blocks” as making campfires with wet kindling was difficult. We
were not troubled with insects, flying or crawling, thankfully.
This trip covered “only” 31 miles
(ave 6.2 miles/day), but, with 30 pounds of gear and constantly
changing elevation, some of us found it to be a workout. We felt
every mile, believe me, and there was a steady demand from our band
members for the aspirin and ibuprofen kept close at hand!
Bill Bryson wrote in “A Walk in
the Woods”, “The hardest part was coming to terms with the
constant dispiriting discovery that there is always more hill. Each
time you haul yourself up to what you think must surely be the crest,
you find that there is in fact one more hill beyond, …... and that
beyond that slope there is another, and …. The elusive summit
continually retreats by whatever distance you press forward, so that
each time the canopy parts enough to give a view you are dismayed to
see that the topmost trees are as remote, as unattainable, as
before”.
Nevertheless, we did make it to the top
of several mountains and the views were sensational: a boundless
vista of wooded mountains, marching off in every direction to the
distant horizons.
A day-to-day description of our hike
follows.
Day 1 October 11, 2013
We began our Appalachian Trail
Adventure at Hemlock Farms (
http://www.hemlockhollowinn.com)
where our group assembled in the afternoon. We enjoyed a delicious
Catfish Dinner prepared by Mark, son of Hattie and Fred of the Paint
Creek Cafe.
Eager for the hike, we discussed our
plan, and compared packs and gear. We slept in their hikers'
hostel, one room with sink and microwave, dining table, and 8 bunk
beds (earplugs are essential). The bunk house overlooks Paint Creek.
The Bath House is close by. The Paint Creek Cafe is elevated over
the other side of the creek, with fish visible from the deck.
Day 2 October 12, 2013
Hattie prepared us for our first day of
hiking with her famous breakfast. We knew we wouldn't see anything
like it on the trail! Mark drove us to the start point of our hike,
Max Patch, NC.
It had been raining steadily all week, even the night
before, but as we arrived at the trail-head, the sun came out and so
did the hikers for miles around.
Our trip co-coincided with the much
maligned US government shutdown that closed the National Parks. This
resulted in numbers of day hikers being diverted from nearby National
Parks to Pisgah National Forest (not affected by the shutdown. you
tell me why). We left the day hikers behind after the first few
miles.
Max Patch is a bald mountain on the
NC/TN border about 14 miles from Interstate 40. It is famous along
the AT for its 360 degree view of surrounding mountains, namely Bald
Mountain (which we climbed), the Unakas to the North, the Great
Smokies to the South, and the Great Balsams and Black Mountains to
the Southeast.
No one is certain about the origin of
bald mountain tops. Theories have been postulated that these balds
originated from aboriginal practice of fire ecology, or ice damage,
invasion by gall wasps and/or grazing pressure by bison and
domesticated livestock. Our Frog says it was named after Max, the
horse, who lived on the Patch. Did I get that right, Frog? It is
maintained now by periodic mowing.
We stopped for our first night after
only 4 miles because of our late start and because we happened upon
an idyllic campsite, vowing we would put in a good day's distance in
the morning. We enjoyed eating together, a campfire and talk. Being
an amiable group of hiking companions, we pretended to enjoy each
others stories and laughed at each others jokes that, of course, we
had never heard before. Fortunately, none of our group pretended
that they could sing. However, the hooting owls were a special treat
that we could not have surpassed.
Day 3 October 13, 2013
Rain overnight stopped at 0630. By
0900 we were on the trail. We meet several backpackers today. The
north-bound through-hikers passed by months before. We met a
south-bound solo through-hiker. On the trail for weeks, but he did
not smell bad. Disgustingly lean, muscular and fit except for the
knee brace, he was happy to chat, as most solo hikers were.
EDITORIAL COMMENT: Ladies! Listen Up!
There are solo men walking around on the Appalachian Trail. Go
there to find them!
We were passed by two quick-stepping
ladies from TN who were also headed for Hot Springs. They had
“adopted” a young man from PA who had started in GA and was
“section hiking”. This is a common occurrence. Hiking groups
form, dissolve, and reform along the trail. We enjoyed a chat with
this group of three.
On the other hand, we also encountered people zipping along with
recorders on their arms (“fit bits”), who were keen to achieve
their maximum speed and distance. They did not stop to chat.
The terrain was steep today, both up
and down. The only more or less level place we found for our
overnight campsite was on a forest service “road”, actually a
dirt track for 4X4 vehicles. Pitching tents here we faced sudden
death from speeding ATVs during the night! However, we were
comforted by Thoreau, who wrote, “If a person is alive, there is
always danger that they may die, though the danger must be allowed to
be less in proportion as he is dead-and-alive to begin with.”
Rather than watching “reality shows”, we were experiencing
“reality” and “survival” daily! Would we be allowed on the
show tomorrow?
Day 4 October 14, 2013.
We were up at 0630, and departed camp
at 0845. Just before we walked away, a hunter in 4X4 truck, with dog
in bed, drove through what a few minutes ago had been our campsite.
Both dog and hunter were wired! Literally and figuratively. “Seen
any bar?” This was opening day for BEAR Hunting in Pisgah National
Forest.
Later, we came across another group of
hunters waiting, hopefully, for the call from comrades that the dogs
had sent a bear running toward them. We had a chat with them about
the hunt; how it is a group activity, the role of the dogs, how they
get any killed bear out of the forest and more.
Today's hike was a net downhill one,
but plenty of up-slopes and no level terrain. At 1630 we arrived at
the Iron Horse Inn after 9.2 miles that day. I thought my knees were
going to scream. Everyone of our group was happy to arrive in Hot
Springs, NC....bath, pizza, beer!
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When we reserved accommodations at the
Iron Horse Inn, we made sure that one of our rooms was equipped with
a large whirlpool tub. We had been looking forward to that all day
today, and it was every bit as lovely as I imagined. Juniper,
Eunoia and I took turns in the tub, while Frog and White Socks were
working hard at the laundry. Frog had earlier picked up the “food
drop” he had shipped to the Iron Horse Inn so he would not have to
carry it for the first few days. After all, WEIGHT IS CRITICAL when
you're backpacking.
After soaking bodies and washing
clothes, we went to the Spring Creek Tavern overlooking said creek
for pizza and beer. We enjoyed sleeping in real beds. The Iron
Horse Inn is a treat even if you aren't backpacking.
At a hearty breakfast in the Smoky
Mountain Cafe, we discussed how to deal with the particularly steep
section of AT northbound from Hot Springs. The forecast rain was
also a factor. We unanimously decided to take a shuttle from Hot
Springs to Hurricane Gap, thereby skipping over the steepest section
of the day's hike. This was an important part of our continuing
recuperation from the longer hike of the day before, and enhanced our
enjoyment of the day.
From Hurricane Gap, we proceeded at our
leisurely pace, going through a diversity of forests. The
Appalachian Mountains are home to one of the world's great hardwood
forests, the richest, most diverse woodland ever to grace the
temperate world.
We saw American Elm (few exist today), chestnut,
hemlock, dogwood, red spruce, white pine, mountain ash, red, black,
and white oak, sugar maple, black hickory, shag-bark hickory, giant
magnolia, mountain laurel, and “tunnels” of rhododendron.
We camped early today not too far off
the trail, as we had been told by south-bound hikers that the next
best campsites north of us were already occupied. We liked stopping
to make camp before dark so we could leisurely pitch our tents, made
a campfire, eat dinner, rig our “bear hangs”, and generally
lounge about.
Tonight we were snugly in our tents when awoken by a
large group of hikers with flashlights coming along the trail in the
dark looking for a place to camp. They sighted our tents and “bear
hangs” and, disappointed, moved on into the dark, continuing their
search for a site to camp.
We met that group the next morning.
True enough, it was 14 students from Indiana State University taking
part in an educational AT Mountain adventure. They had a group
leader and they were delightfully pleasant young adults.
We chose not to stay in shelters, as
they are infested with chipmunks, mice and squirrels, which can be
night-long tormentors. The shelters do offer protection from the
elements and usually a "bear hang". This is a wire
stretched between two trees with a “collar” at each end to keep
small critters out of food bags. Additional wires are suspended from
the horizontal wire with snap swivels to attach gear. Food bags are
hauled up 8 feet.
Day 6, October 16, 2013
Today we hiked along a series of narrow
ridges with intervening dips into gorgeous, steeply sloped little
valleys. On the ridges, the forest was thin enough for nice views of
the adjacent mountains. There was a delightful breeze across
the ridges. Walking into and out of the valleys we passed through
stands of large hardwood trees which made so much shade that there
was little undergrowth between their thick trunks.
There was plenty of bear “sign”
where we stopped for the night on one of the narrow ridges.
Because
Frog selected this lovely site, we named it “Frog's Bear Scat
Camp”.
Because we did not stay at the
shelters, we made our own “bear hang” to lift food packs out of
reach of bears.
White Socks had invested in a “bear canister”,
that he also used as a camp seat.
Overnight, he placed the canister
some distance away. We saw no bear and had no other “critters”
invade our bags or tents.
There is other advice to avoid bear
encounters: “don't sleep in clothes worn when eating”, “don't
bring food into your tent” and “cook away from the tent site”.
Some parks require you to use a bear canister, and we are
considering buying one.
Day 7, October 17, 2013
Today it was a short hike back to
Hemlock Farms, happy to find our stash of wine. There were welcome
showers, dinner and packing of vehicles for the morning departure.
We are looking forward to hiking more
of the AT, perhaps around Harper's Ferry, VA in the Spring. Eunoia
and Ladybug have decided that 5 to 6 miles/day in steep terrain is
quite enough for ourselves. Our biggest mistake of this hike was to
have too many miles as a daily goal. The youngsters in the group
forged ahead, which was fine as we met again at intervals. For us,
rather to enjoy each minute of the hike than to cover great
distances.
Many thanks to the Flatulent Frog,
White Socks and Juniper for adding to our wonderful adventure and to White Socks and Juniper for contributing photos to this post. We
will remember the good times on the trail when we're “old and
gray”, in our rocking chairs!
We encourage all readers to get out
into the mountains and GO HIKING!
Catherine and Peter
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