Thailand

ANCIENT KINGDOMS OF ASIA, THAILAND

November 3-6 and 20-21, 2013
Chapter I

Catherine and Peter have long anticipated exploring Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. The attractions for us were to learn more, and at first hand, about the ancient and more recent histories of these countries. We enjoy Asian food. This Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour included all four countries, each country with their own local guides. The trip dates coincided well with our plans for an Appalachian Trail Hike, a Davidson Family Reunion and visits with our friends, Nora and Ken in Oregon and Susan in California. The timing was fortuitous!

We have decided to present each country separately.  Chapter II Laos, Chapter III Vietnam, and Chapter IV Cambodia will follow.

Day 1 November 3, 2013

We flew with Cathay Pacific Airways from Los Angeles to Hong Kong to Bangkok. It was economy class (tightly packed passengers), but the service could not have been better. There were multiple meals and my wine glass was filled as often as I desired. I caught up on movies I had missed in the past five years. Whether due to uncomfortable seat or excitement about the trip, I did not sleep much. Peter evidently had no problem with the seats, just installed his ear plugs and eye covers, and awoke pretty much only to eat. We “lost” a day crossing the International Date Line, but we knew that “Going West is Best” for jet lag. We experienced no jet lag.

We could not escape noticing many Thai expressions from signs to photos of the King, and lovely orchids.

THAILAND with PE

We were met upon arrival in Bangkok by Kapeeporn Dhammasidhi, “Call me Pe”, who was our trip leader for the entire trip. She is a petite, patient, competent, vivacious celestial dancer, and all-together fun lady. Thank you, Pe!

We visited the Day and Night Markets by tuk-tuk.  Pushcart vendors and street stalls offered a variety of Buddha statues, clothing, jewelry, art, and other souvenirs. There were attractive displays of fresh herbs and ground seasonings that create the backbone for Thai kaeng (curries), which are thinned with coconut milk, decorated with vegetables/meat and served on  rice.

We learned much about Thailand during our brief stay there. Here are some highlights.

Thais greet one another with a prayer-like gesture of the palms and a bow of the head (more bow to greet a monk, senior or superior) and saying, written phonetically, “sa-wat-dii kha” (if speaker is female) or “sa-wat-dii khrap” (if male). Goodbye is “laa kawn”, and thank you is “khawp khun”. We did not progress much beyond this in spite of Pe's continuing efforts. Just to make it more challenging, words with the same spelling can have different meanings depending on changes in pitch. It takes a practiced ear to distinguish the differences of the five different tones.

We attempted learning about Thai “religion”. Theravada Buddhism is predominant. Buddha was a prince who left a life of privilege at the age of 29 in the 6^th Century, BC. His quest to find the truth and his meditation were rewarded with his emancipation, breaking the cycle of birth, death and rebirth. He became The Buddha, or enlightened one, to teach the “middle way”. Constant patience, detachment, and renouncing desire for worldly pleasures brings peace and liberation from suffering. Passion, desire, love, and hate are regarded as extremes. We would like to know more.

 There is much Chinese and Hindu influence.  One of my favourite Hindu dieties, beloved by many is Ganesha, with his 2-16 arms, large belly and the head of an elephant with a broken tusk.  A fascinating story describes how this came to be. He is the patron of arts, sciences and letters.

Thai males often become monks for at least short periods of their lives. In other words, they can be monks without a long-term commitment. Monks are respected highly in all the countries that we visited. Their “blessings” are sought by lay persons, who give “alms” in the form of food. We understand that monks do not use or carry money. They live communally on temple grounds.

Temples and temple grounds are open to members of the public, who are expected to show respect. Head wear and shoes are removed before entering temples. Men and Women are expected to cover shoulders, and pants or skirts must extend below the knees. In fact, there are monitors who restrict entry into their sacred places to those improperly dressed. Alternatively, if judged to not be dressed suitably and still wanting entry, one may purchase on the spot, a garment to cover the offending skin.

Thais build spirit houses (“phra phuum”) outside buildings and homes to encourage spirits to live nearby and in comfort, to bring good fortune to the site. They are ornate wat-like structures set on a pedestal in a prominent section of the yard. Food, drink and money are offered to the spirits to smooth daily life. Our hotel had a spirit house at the front entrance and offerings were freshened each day.

Thai food is a complex balance of spice, salt, sweet and sour. The ingredients are fresh and light with lots of lemon grass, basil, coriander and mint. Pungent “naam plaa” (fish sauce made from anchovies) added with zest of lime, a pinch of sugar, minced garlic and ginger for vegetables, chicken, beef, pork, tofu or fish mixed with coconut milk to make a curry.

We favoured several dishes. There were “yam plaa meuk” (spicy squid salad with mint leaves, cilantro and Chinese celery), whole fried tilapia, lotus leaves with garlic, sticky rice around banana, bean paste wrapped in a banana leaf or in bamboo, “tom yam kumg” (coconut soup with prawns) and “tom khaa kai” (coconut soup with chicken and galangal), and catfish. For us, the best dishes were vegetarian; not philosophically, but just because they tasted better. Seafood was tender and tasteful, but beef, chicken and pork were not worth chewing...and chewing...and chewing.

The Thai elephant is it's most revered indigenous mammal, symbolizing wisdom, strength and good fortune. The shape of Thailand has been likened to the head of an elephant.

The Asian elephant is now endangered, having lost it's traditional role in society and much of it's habitat. Like all countries with a high population density striving for economic advancement, the forest cover has declined dramatically. Legislation is coming into effect to address environmental issues, but many citizens are marginalized in their ability to feed their families and corruption impedes the government's attempts to shelter species coveted by illicit global wildlife trade. Please don't buy endangered or exotic animals as pets.

Instead, you should consider, the popular and comfortable Thai pants modeled by our OAT group.

Day 2 November 4, 2013

Our accommodations at the Pantip Suites were spacious! There was an entrance foyer with closets, kitchen/dining area, living room, bedroom, bath with connected dressing room and a Balcony overlooking Bangkok from the 19^th floor. We could have entertained 4 more comfortably in our suite. The refrigerator was stocked with the local beer, Singha. Even though by now it was 2 AM local, I couldn't resist the large bathtub! Peter brought me a “cold Singha” in the tub. Heavenly!

Day 3 November 5, 2013

Up again early for the start of our Asian adventure! There was a daily breakfast buffet that, in it's diversity, could satisfy any palate. Obviously, in this western style hotel we were not eating like the “man-on-the-street”, but we did follow Bangkok custom of having noodle soup for breakfast.

It was prepared on the spot by dipping a strainer basket of rice noodles into boiling water, then adding vegetables, fish, beef, or chicken, chopped egg, tiny shrimp and spices (dried red chilli, sugar, fish sauce and vinegar). The soup was accompanied with pickled duck egg and followed by an assortment of lovely fruits, some new to us (mangosteen and various kinds of dragon fruit). Of course, there was a diversity of rice-based dishes. To cater to western tastes, there were chefs making omelets and waffles to order, and warming trays with bacon, sausage, and sauteed vegetables. There was a salad bar. There was a bread and cheese table. All this offered for breakfast!

After this sumptuous breakfast we waddled off to meet the members of the group. We introduced ourselves and gave a little background. Most travelers were from the Boston area except for a couple from Long Island, a man from the VA-DC area, and Peter and I. One of our group was from Thailand. He was instrumental in preparing the Boston contingent under the auspices of OLLI (Osher Lifelong Learning Institute), University of Massachusetts, Boston.

We enjoyed a bus tour of the city and ended on the Mekong for a delightful lunch. Once again our OAT group experienced "noodle soup" to order.

After lunch some of us visited the Jim Thompson House and Museum. We were taught how to ride the elevated metro system by our very own native Thai, Wichian. It is very similar to mass transits in many large metropolitan cities, but the trick was for us to figure how much we needed for destination, get our ticket and to stick together “like sticky rice”.

Jim Thompson House and Museum

Jim Thompson was an architect in the US prior to World War II. He joined the Army and was stationed in Europe and Asia. He fell in love with Thailand and after leaving the service, returned there to live.

The hand weaving of silk captured Jim Thompson's attention. He became a gifted designer and textile colorist, bringing world-wide recognition to Thai silk. His home reflects many features of traditional Thai architecture; single buildings built of teak, elevated a a full story above the ground to protect from flooding during the rainy season. The roofs are steeply pitched and decorated with motifs related to naga, the mythical sea serpent long believed to be a protector of the home. There are representations mythical birds (garuda) decorating the gables.

We saw silk cocoons being heated, spun then wound on a lazy “Kate”.

They also pleased us with classic Thai dancing in beautiful traditional dress.












We were saved from spending a lot of money on silk goods in their shop by the arrival of the departure time for the next leg of our tour.

Day 4 November 6, 2013

After breakfast, we boarded our bus to Ayutthaya. Three rivers (Mae Nam Lopburi, Chao Phraya and Pa Sak) form the island of Ayutthaya, the Thai capital until two years of war with the Burmese. The city's architectural and religious treasures were taken and the royal family forced to Thonburi, near Bangkok.

Many religious practices might be seen as superstitious.  None-the-less, we all followed the practices.  We learned about shaking a cylinder with "pickup sticks" that fall out with numbers on them and collecting your "future".  Others write their request on a slip of paper with hopes from Buddha.  Collection boxes are used but food donations are also quite acceptable.

Temples were well attended by locals and tourists alike with great respect.


We rode a “Long Tail Boat” on the Mekong River.

Not surprisingly, Peter was attracted to these boats. He inquired about the make of engines. The reply was translated as “wreck”. In other words, the engines came from wrecked road vehicles, when, decades ago, the drive shaft of the engine went straight back from the transmission (no such things as trans-axles then). So, to adapt these to boat use, “wreck” engines were mounted on pivots, drive shaft was extended aft about 5 metres to the propeller. The entire engine, drive shaft and propeller are rotated horizontally to steer, and all tilted up in the most shallow waters. Amazing to Peter!

Then we visited the King's Summer Palace, complete with a topiary of the national elephant, ponds, gazebos and buildings to house the concubines.  Gifts from Japan and elsewhere were readily apparent in splendor.  

A real treat was to meet the Fruit Bar Hostess who provided samples of mangosteen!

Thai pineapple should be entered in the Guinness Book of World Records.

Delicious!

Along the shore of the Mekong River, citizens of all socio-economic classes live. Within a sparse few kilometers, we passed temples, fish farms, luxury hotels, universities, schools, and shanties holding bravely to the water's edge.

Ayutthaya and Ancient Siam, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the home to 33 kingly dynasties from as early as 1357. Ayatthuya was the capital of Siam from 1353 to 1767, when it was a place of great wealth.

We continued to Wat Pho, which is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and home of the country's largest reclining Buddha made of plaster and finished in gold leaf. This was an amazing place spread out over many acres, and very much visited. The temples are in various states of disrepair with monks strolling meditatively.

Cuu Trung Dai Temple of Thailand and the Old Kingdom of Siam, is full of ceremonial halls. The Old Kingdom of Siam was seen at the Grand Palace of Thailand, Bangkok's defining landmark since 1782, King Mongkut (or Rama IV) first ruled from this palace and was romanticized in the movie “The King and I”. The palace is used now for ceremonial events only. It was beautiful in all it's splendor.

Wat Phra Kaew The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha

The Emerald Buddha was carved from a block of green jade and re-discovered in 1434 in a stupa in Chiang Rai. The jade was covered with plaster, however, an abbot noticed a sparkle of jade where plaster had flaked off the nose. Wars and marriages have caused this Buddha to do quite a lot of traveling, but the original now resides in Thailand. Laos has a temple with a copy.

The Buddha is clad in one of the three seasonal costumes (summer, rainy season and winter).

Wat Yai Chaimongkol is a temple flanked by a row of saffron-draped Buddha statues. Wat Mongkol Bophit houses the largest seated bronze Buddha statue in Thailand. Wat Phra Sri Sanphet is where monks live and study.

We visited the elephant camp and enjoyed a ride sitting in the “houdah” while the driver sits behind the elephant's ears. We placed our tip into the elephant's trunk to be passed to the driver sitting on his neck.

Several of our group attended pub crawl in the red light district that evening, where one can meet the “lady boys”, and dance the pole with great enjoyment.

Peter and Catherine were exhausted from this already long day and unfortunately missed this unique event.

RETURN TO THAILAND

Day 18, November 20, 2013
After visiting Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, we flew back to Bangkok and returned to the Pantip Suite and our Farewell Dinner Cruisie.

The dinner was delightful and afterwards “Our Pe”, true to her habit of surprising us, and wearing a beautiful Thai skirt, entertained us with her Celestial Dancing, which she also attempted to teach us. We danced around the tables up and down the Mekong River.

This journal would be incomplete without mentioning Loi Krathong, which is held on the proper full-moon night, when tiny votive lotus flowers with lit candles are floated on the Mekong from our Dinner Boat.

We each made a wish or said a prayer and one by one our lit candle is lowered in a basket to the river. Lovely watching the parade of lit flowers flowing downstream from our boat.

We shared goodbye hugs and promised to meet again in another fascinating part of the world.

Day 19, November 21, 2013

This was our day to return to North America. We took Cathay Pacific Airways from Bangkok to Hong Kong, and from there to Los Angeles while others of our group continued their overseas adventure travel going in many different directions.

My thanks to Pe, Wichian and Pam for sharing their wonderful photo memories with us.

What a wonderful trip! We are planning a Reunion in Boston April 13^th with some of the friends we made on our adventure.

Our visit to Laos will soon be in the next edition of our Rejuvenation Blog. We hope you will find these travels as interesting to read about as we did to experience.  And remember your tiger balm!

We hope you enjoyed this post, Catherine and Peter.