Report from the Saddle: Second Bicycle Tour 2015

The Ride is in two distinct parts: the C&O Canal and the Great Allegheny Passage.

Part 1 is along the towpath of the former Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, from Arlington, VA, to Cumberland, MD, a distance of 198 miles, paralleling the Potomac River, the water source for the canal. The towpath was constructed for the mules that pulled the barges along the canal. There are numerous locks to raise the barges from sea level at Washington to 605 ft above sea level at Cumberland, MD. Between locks the path is level. Once outside the environs of Washington, the cycle path is an unpaved “two tract”, wide enough for two bikes to travel abreast. The surface is not smooth, having been invaded by protruding tree roots and featuring numerous “pot-holes”.

This part with the towpath along the canal is the C&O Canal National Park http://www.nps.gov/choh/index.htm. There are numerous Park camp sites and commercial campgrounds along the entirety.

Part 2 is a rail-trail along the former rail bed of one of the lines through the Great Allegheny Passage from Cumberland, Md, to Pittsburgh, PA, an additional 152 miles http://www.atatrail.org/. Partially paved, and smoothly-graded and hard-packed where not paved, the rail-trail climbs steadily from Cumberland to the Eastern Continental Divide, a total climb of 2,392 ft from Washington. From the Divide, it is mostly downhill to Pittsburgh, PA, a net decline of 1670 feet from the Divide.

The total distance cycled from Arlington, VA, to Pittsburgh, PA was 350 mi. over seven consecutive days. And that, folks, is an average of 50 miles cycled per day!

The Tour Company we used is Adventure Cycling Association.

This was a fully-supported ride. There were 37 paying riders from 20 states plus us from Canada. There were seven support staff. We camped in our own tents and sleeping bags that were transported by truck to each campground. Bob Westgate was our Tour Leader. Chris was our luggage handler and truck driver. We rode with an experienced bicycle mechanic, Don. 

Various support roles were pleasantly filled by Sue, Karen, Val, and George. All the staff cycled for on-trail moral support and rotated responsibility for the twice a day “Nutrition Breaks”. There was always a staff member cycling at the end of the pack, to “sweep” the trail for stragglers (often Peter and Catherine) and recover the directional signage. On more than one afternoon we unapologetically used the “Sag Wagon” on the sometimes steep final approach to the campground.

Breakfast and dinner were catered at the campgrounds by Anne and Serge of “Culinary Insider”, traveling with an professional kitchen in an 18 ft trailer. The meals were spectacular, fresh and varied.   http://www.culinaryinsider.com/  

This tour was fast-paced, to put it mildly. In the mornings we followed a 6-7-8 schedule. Up at 6 AM to knock down tents and pack gear for the luggage truck. Breakfast at 7 AM. Make and pack our own lunch. In the saddle by 8 AM. In the evenings it was also a 6-7-8 schedule. Dinner at 6 PM after having set up tents. “Map talk” for the next day at 7 PM. In the tents by 8 PM to sleep deeply after the day's exertion.

Our group included riders more experienced than us. Several of them, even more aged than us, cycle well over 1000 miles per year. We were shamed by their fitness levels and their cycling performance. Their comfortable pace of riding brought them into camp much earlier than us, so they had more time for socializing in the afternoons than us laggards who frequently arrived just in time for dinner. This was our longest ride to date, and we are motivated to improve our fitness year-by-year, so as to increase our enjoyment of such tours as this.  "If we had known that we were going to live this long, we would have taken better care of ourselves."

Our co-rider, Ed Wojtaszek, has posted on his blog, Edek's Attic, a day-by-day description of the ride, ACA C&O Canal and GAP Tour 2015 http://ow.ly/TAvZY. We refer you to his post for that description, which we will not repeat here. Instead, in our post we describe what were highlights of the ride for us.

There was a mass start from the hotel in Arlington. The group rode together to the National Mall for the traditional “start photo” on the steps of The Lincoln Memorial.

Still in the Mall, riders dispersed to various monuments and memorials, including the Vietnam War Memorial, where Catherine is, of course, always drawn to the Memorial to the Military Nurse. This statue portrays two battlefield nurses, with wounded soldier, anxiously awaiting arrival of the medi-vac helicopter.

In the vicinity of Washington, the towpath is busy with walkers, runners, bicyclists, backpackers, and families with dogs and strollers. There was even a group doing Yoga on stand-up paddle-boards in one of the Canal Lakes. It was pleasing to see so many enjoying the Great Outdoors! During the first day, as we pedaled northwest, the towpath traffic thinned out quickly and we soon found ourselves in a more rural habitat.

We enjoyed the remnants of the locks and the well-preserved lock keepers houses, some in very attractive locations between the Potomac River and the Canal.

There was socializing at the Nutrition Breaks and along the towpath at various highlights such as dams, bridges, and aqueducts.

Don drew our attention to a patch of Paw Paw trees with fruit just ripening. Very tasty! Catherine remembers learning the song, "The Paw Paw Patch" as a child.

The ride along the towpath was spectacularly scenic. We pedaled through a lovely hardwood forest, in the early stages of fall colours, often quite close to the Potomac River. By this point the bike traffic was very light, so we often had the forest to ourselves.

It was obvious that the remains of the canal provide a wonderful natural habitat for deer, rabbits, squirrels, birds, turtles, fish, and frogs.

Each evening we re-built our tent city. 

We gathered with beer or wine to share our experiences of the day's ride while dinner was in preparation. There was much conversation of features of bike models, but we still don't know who makes the best shifter! Meanwhile, Don, our mechanic was busy with cleaning, lubricating and repairing bicycles. There were numerous flat tires experienced in our group, but fortunately, our puncture-resistant tires performed as advertised (or we were just lucky).

The Paw Paw tunnel was a highlight. National Park Service Ranger Rita Knox gave us a nice summary of the construction and history of this 3,118-foot (950 m) long tunnel allowing the canal passage through the mountain. We walked our bikes, using head and tail lights, along the towpath through the tunnel as it was too narrow and dark to ride. Just imagine the mule handler and mules pulling the barges years ago, hoping no one is entering at the other end. There must have been some way to coordinate traffic in those days before cell phones!

Among historic sites along the C&O Canal are Harpers Ferry http://www.nps.gov/hafe/index.htm and The Antietam National Battlefield http://www.nps.gov/anti/index.htm . As we have previously visited these sites, we did not linger this time.

The C&O Canal terminates at Cumberland, MD, where we enjoyed a night in a hotel, especially the tub full of hot water! Riders dispersed in small groups to numerous nearby restaurants.

The next morning we made the transition from C&O towpath to Great Allegheny Passage rail-trail. The rail-trail passes through, or near, more communities than does the C&O towpath. These communities provide a multitude of services, including commercial and free campgrounds, bicycle rental/repair, canoe/kayak rental, lodging, grocery stores, and restaurants. The GAP rail-trail would be doable as a B&B to B&B ride.

The first day on the rail-trail was the toughest, an ascent of 1785 feet to the Eastern Continental Divide. Advertised as a “modest” grade, we found it exhausting, and were pleased that the later afternoon was a steady descent to our campground.

There is still much rail traffic close to, sometimes very close to, the rail-trail. In particular, this made for some noisy campgrounds, with trains being made up or passing throughout the night.

However, all the campgrounds were scenic and we had some very pleasant evenings.

Click on this video for a sample of campfire entertainment. Yes, the video is too dark, but the sound track of the live music is terrific.

The scenery along the rail-trail was simply splendid. There were many attractive long views where we rode alone or in small groups. 

There were also lovely forested sections.

Particularly attractive were the numerous rail bridges converted for use by bicyclists. Click on this video for a sample.

Near Ohiopyle, there was a side trip to the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home “Falling Waters”, famous for it's spectacular cantilevers over a natural watercourse. The tour of the interior (no photos allowed) was well-presented and highly informative.

http://www.waterlandlife.org/43/fallingwaters

Eventually, we arrived in Pittsburgh, where bikes, luggage and riders boarded trucks and buses for the return to Arlington.

We definitely recommend this ride and, in particular, were pleased to have done the trip with Adventure Cycling Association, which met our expectations in every way. Check out their various tours at www.AdventureCycling.org and consider taking a tour with them. We will again!

"Recreational biking by those over age 50 increased 62% between 2001 and 2009, as compared to a 22% increase in the general population."

Peter Zarzecki and Catherine Gallagher, now wintering in the Eastern Caribbean www.svcharlotted.blogspot.com

Report from the Saddle: First Bicycle Tour 2015

Cycling Prince Edward Island

We made two bicycle tours in the fall of 2015. This blog describes the first of those; “tip-to-tip” along The Confederation Trail on Prince Edward Island, Canada.

The New Bicycles

To prepare, we decided we should have new bicycles. After consultation with our friends in Cape Breton Velo http://velocapebreton.ca/ , and with the experts at Hub Cycle Truro http://hubcycle.ca/ , we selected a “comfort” model, from Giant. Standard features include 24 gears with indexed shifter, front fork shock absorber, upright handle bars. The “hybrid” tires are designed for reasonable performance on paved and gravel roads. We added options of full fenders, shock absorber comfort saddle, puncture-resistant tires, clip-in pedals with matching shoes, rear-view mirror, handle bar bags and panniers. These bicycle frames are built for comfort, not for speed, and accommodate the undeniable aging of our own frames.

Additional comfort items included gloves and pants with “gel” padding, and sun-shading brims for our helmets www.dabrim.com. The net effect of all these features is that we can ride further, with pleasure.

We trained regularly over the summer until we could cycle 30 to 50 km a day for consecutive days. Avoiding injury during this training, we were keenly aware of hardening leg muscles and posteriors. We achieved our goal of pedaling 70 km on the weekend of Peter's 70^th birthday. We were pleased that Catherine had no trouble with her knee, documented by X-ray and arthroscopy to have significant deterioration of cartilage.

The Confederation Trail

This bike trail is on the bed of the former Railway Line from Tignish to Elmira; 280 km. https://www.tourismpei.com/pei-confederation-trail The trail is well-groomed, usually a hard-packed fine gravel. There is minimal grade. It passes mostly through forest. There are also stretches of surprisingly scenic rolling hills of pasture and potato fields. We enjoyed the covered picnic tables and benches distributed at intervals along the trail. Very impressive are the numerous information placards describing flora, fauna, habitat, and history. We paused at every placard. The trail crosses numerous rivers and estuaries on old steel railway bridges.

The Tour Company

We booked this tour through Freewheeling Adventures www.freewheeling.ca . It was a self-guided tour from B&B to B&B. We set our own pace. It was a supported ride. Our support driver, Thomas, carried our bags from each day's lodging to the next. He assisted with the daily routine maintenance (lubrication, tire pressures, etc), thereby teaching us quite a bit about bicycles. Each morning he came to our lodging and drove us and our bikes to that day's starting point along The Confederation Trail. We carried lunch and selected scenic spots for our mid-day stop. At the end of each day's ride, Thomas met us at a pre-arranged location, where a road intersected the trail, and transported us to our new lodging. In some cases, lodging was close enough to the trail that we cycled directly to our bed.

The Ride

Over five days we cycled from North Cape to Elmira, 35 to 60 km/day.

On Day One, we began cycling from the Wind Energy Interpretive Centre, North Cape.

It was raining lightly, and cycling into a head wind during the open first part, we were pleased to soon enter a forested section where we were at least protected from the wind. The weather gradually improved and it became a pleasant afternoon.  Near the end of the day's ride we enjoyed the Tignish Community Museum with a diverse collection of historical memorabilia and artifacts, and a knowledgeable docent. 

That evening we lodged at The North Port Pier Inn http://www.northportpier.ca/ overlooking the Oulton Lighthouse from our balcony. We enjoyed seafood chowders, oysters and the famous PEI mussels.

On Day Two our first stop was The O'Leary Potato Museum, which is surprisingly interesting. We came to appreciate the diversity of potato varieties, and the numerous diseases and pests to be combated by the dedicated farmers and scientists. The day's ride was through forest and, in some parts, close to potato fields, which we observed with new appreciation.

We pedaled directly to The Prince County B & B http://www.princecounty.ca/ in Miscouch, in a lovely old home with eclectic decorations and furnishings. The well-maintained hardwood floors were a particular delight. Rain began in the evening and continued all night. 

The breakfast was outstanding, and left us well-prepared for the day.

The Wash Out

On Day Three it was raining so heavily that we elected not to ride. Instead, by utilizing our support driver, we spent the day visiting museums and historical sites. Touring the beautifully preserved Wyatt and Lefurge Mansions gave us insight into the history of commerce, wealth and culture in Summerside. The Fox Museum introduced us to the boom and bust of the fox farming industry. The Eptek Art and Culture Centre displays a diversity of high quality local art work and has a nice review of the history of Summerside. The Acadian Museum provided a look at what French Canadians had to endure after the British seizure of their homesteads. Yet another sad example of the “ethnic cleansing” repeating throughout history to this day.

That evening we were impressed with the diverse amenities offered by the Chez Shea B&B in Kinkora www.chezshea.ca , including spa facilities, marvelous meals, and a welcome their competitors would envy. There is a nearby pub with draft beer and acceptable pub fare.

On Day Four we cycled along the Dunk River through Hunter Valley, where the scenery resembles parts of The Appalachian Trail (after all, PEI's hills are an extension of the Appalachian Mountain Range). Click on the short video.

We thought that this was the most beautiful section of The Confederation Trial. We ended the day's ride at the Village of Hunter Valley and met our support driver.  After sandwiches, fruit pie and ice cream cones at a charming riverfront deli, we transferred by van to the north coast, stopping at the Cavendish Dunes. 

Spectacular ocean scenery in any weather! 

We elected not cycle the next section due to the high winds and continued by van to our lodging.

We enjoyed the hospitality of Dalvay-by-the-Sea.  Especially comfortable and welcoming are their Great Rooms with fihttp://www.dalvaybythesea.com/ 

That evening we atended a musical in Charlottestown, “Bitter Girl”. Emotionally cathartic, “Bitter Girl” follows three women in their plunge from what they thought was perfect romantic bliss to abandonment and breakdown. Then there is the journey back to self-esteem and independent happiness. Checkout www.charlottetownfestival.com

On Day Five we transferred by support van back to The Confederation Trail to continue our ride toward St. Peter's, along the spectacular Hillsborough River, the first Canadian Heritage River. We identified a wide variety of upland birds and waterfowl. Active Osprey nests are located close along the trail.  

It was a scenic, tranquil ride along the shore of St. Peter's Bay.

Fortunately, we arrived at The Inn at St. Peter's www.innatstpeters.pe.ca before the deluge, and our room was supplied with umbrellas to shelter us on the short walk to the dining room.   It was a splendid seafood dinner!


On Day Six we rode to the end of the rail line at Elmira and enjoyed the restored station train museum, and the Lighthouse marking the end of the Confederation Trail. 

Returning by support van to lodging at Willowgreen Farm B&B, www.willowgreenfarm.com/, we said goodbye to Thomas, who had provided reliable support throughout our tour. In our opinion, the extra cost of his support was well worth it.

We enjoyed the well-deserved in-room Spa at the Willowgreen Farm and had a good night's sleep.

The next morning we started south towards New Hampshire to visit our dear friend, Inga. This stop was en-route to our next bicycle tour, with Adventure Cycling passing through five states from Arlington, VA to Pittsburgh, PA, 600 km along the Chesapeake-Ohio towpath and Great Allegheny Gap rail-trail. Look for it's description in our next blog posting! Coming Soon!

“Begin at the beginning, go on to the end, then stop.” Alice in Wonderland.

Peter and Catherine, now wintering aboard S/V Charlotte D in Eastern Caribbean.

Www.svcharlotted.blogspot.com

Cuba Reflections 2015

Cuba Reflections 2015

Not to neglect it's impact upon the Cuban population, the U.S. Embargo has impoverished U.S. citizens by impeding their travel to this neighboring country which has so much to offer. On the other hand, we feel that the Embargo has preserved a treasure.

During our visit, May 7- 22, we met tourists from Ireland, Canada, Japan, China, Israel, several African countries, France, Brazil, Venezuela, Uruguay, Ecuador, Mexico, Russia, and Germany. Many visitors travel little beyond the enjoyable beach resorts, and for those who do travel more widely there are opportunities to see and do much.

The population of Cuba was 11.1 million at the last census, in a land area of 109,884 sq km (42,426 sq mi), the largest island in the Antilles. The population is mostly whites (64%), while minorities include mulatto/mestizo (27%) and black (9%). Life expectancy is 78 years, the same as in the US and slightly lower than in Canada.

We arrived in Havana direct from Toronto aboard Air Canada. Customs and Immigration were fast and easy. Enrique shepherded us through the Cambio and rum shop before driving us the 30 min to the Hotel Roc Presidente, located near the famous Malecon and a pleasant walk to Habana Vieja.

Its location is one of the few admirable features of this hotel. This is a government-run hotel, which often means that the staff, though well-attired and polite, are not particularly enthusiastic. The physical plant needs significant refreshing.

On the morning after our arrival, we enjoyed the desayuno buffet at the hotel before striding off to explore Havana, walking east along the Malecon. 

We passed the well-guarded U.S. Interests Section, re-designated The U.S. Embassy since our visit. Our walk proceeded to the Hotel Nacional de Cuba  http://www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com/en/history.asp and along 23 Ave with it's profusion of 1950's U.S.- made cars. 

We stopped at the Hotel Habana Libre  (Havana Hilton before the Revolution) to view the display of photos of Fidel and Che billeting there upon their take-over of Havana https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hotel_Tryp_Habana_Libre . Then it was across the street to the privately-owned shop Las Bulerias for beer (Cacique) and street viewing.

Our Favourite!  Bucanero Fuerte!  Catherine's favourite is a Mojito!

Habana Vieja was founded by Spain in 1519. Many fortifications date from the 1500s. There are numerous old buildings which have been wonderfully restored, with more undergoing restoration.

However, this part of Havana is suffering a sad decay of it's circa 1900's baroque and neoclassical residential buildings. It's obvious that this residential section was once beautiful. Marble columns, floors and stairs remain in the midst of crumbling facades and collapsing roofs. Age and neglect have combined with severe weather (hurricanes) to threaten the future of this historic town. We walked local neighborhoods of 3-5 story decaying tenements along narrow streets with few automobiles. Residents were sitting on stoops before open doors and children playing in the quiet streets. There are veggie stands, many dogs, and laundry drying on balconies. Trash is not well-managed in these neighborhoods. There are street beggars. Likely as not banos outside hotels are without toilet seats, tissue, lights, faucets, or door latches.

Residents were sitting on stoops before open doors and children playing in the quiet streets. There are veggie stands, many dogs, and laundry drying on balconies. Trash is not well-managed in these neighborhoods. There are street beggars. Likely as not banos outside hotels are without toilet seats, tissue, lights, faucets, or door latches.

On our second day of independent exploration of Havana we visited the Museum of the Revolution with many photos labeled in Spanish and English. There are numerous military artifacts, including the M/V “Granma” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granma_(yacht) which carried Fidel and Raul Castro, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos, among some 80 others, back to Cuba from Mexico to restart the Revolution in 1956.

After lunch in a local restaurant (equivalent to US $10 for both of us) we hired a bike-taxi ($5) to theNational Museum of Fine Art and again to “La Floridita” bar, which opened in 1871 and originated the daiquiri in the 1930s. 

Ernest Hemingway has been given a special place at their bar.   

Floridita is a busy place musically.  We hope you enjoy this short video.

We enjoyed the live quartet with a beer and a daiquiri ($10). Purchased a quart of rum for $9 at nearby grocery, before hiring a proud driver and his beautiful 1955 Chevy (original V8 sounds good) for $10 trip back to hotel.

Our Elder Treks Tour started on our third day. Our Cuban-born guide Alex spoke perfect English and did a splendid job of introducing us to his country. He effectively managed many small and larger aspects of the tour.  Tony drove us safely throughout and managed luggage and cold water.  Thank you, Alex and Tony.

Our First Tour Day was for Plazas, Palaces, Prados, Cathedrals and Castellos in and about Habana Vieja. A splendid collection of beautiful buildings. We enjoyed the mimes, musicians, “cigar gentlemen”, and traditionally-clad ladies.

There was a welcome refreshment stop at the Hotel Ambos Mundos, circa 1920, where Ernest Hemingway resided, and imbibed, while writing several short stories. We rode the creaky bellhop-operated elevator to the roof-top bar with splendid views.  

There are many pedestrian only streets in Habana Viejo.

The musical highlight of the day was listening to the Buena Vista Social Club https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaerapRPS64 at the Cafe Taverna after dinner.

The first stop of our Second Tour Day was an interesting visit to the Farmer's Market at Miramar, where Alex introduced us to facets of the economy and the confusing dual currencies http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Travel-g147270-c109329/Cuba:Caribbean:Money.Exchange.html.

Then it was off into the rural countryside to Valle de los Ingenios / Viñales Valley. The first stop was Las Terraces, a colonial French coffee plantation, now the Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve of tropical mountain forest http://www.cubanaturetravel.com/biosphere-reserves . Our local guide, Ysidro, led a short forest hike, showing us many birds and plants (and often their medicinal uses).

When the Biosphere Reserve was formed, some of the existing residents were displaced to a newly constructed “commune”, which includes a “mixto” school; preschool to high school and technical training. We visited the school and enjoyed the interactions.

We lodged two nights at the Hotel Jazmine Pinar del Rio, lounging around the pool in afternoons with beers and swimming before dinner. Guitar and violin playing in dinning room.

A cigar factory was first stop on our Third Tour Day. Government run, like a sweat-shop, dense seating in small room, workers paid by number of cigars, no photos allowed. The cigars for sale are likely knock-off Cohibas http://coolmaterial.com/feature/decoded-how-to-spot-fake-cohibas/

This visit initiated more discussion with Alex about the complex, multi-tier economy and what might result from anticipated improved relations with the US.

Before lunch we had a walk and boat ride through the Caveo of Indians. 

This was scenic, but we did not learn about the present state of the Taino-Arawak Indians whose ancestors met Columbus when he lead the first European invasion of Cuba. A topic for further research. 



 We learned of the folklore of Hatuey, an Arawak chief who, before being burned at the stake by Spaniards (1512), was offered baptism so he could go to heaven. Hatuey refused baptism saying, “If heaven is the place that Spaniards go, I don't want to go”.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatuey

Along the way we meet a very "horney" water buffalo who wanted his picture taken.

We enjoyed another wonderful Paladar meal with music.

On our Fourth Tour Day we stopped at a tobacco farm to learn about how the government regulates and taxes tobacco farmers. The seed is issued by and most of the product goes to the government. Farmers retain a portion of the product for their own uses. We visited the drying houses and had a lesson in cigar making. We purchased a few cigars directly from the farmer ($2 each). Yet another example of the small-scale capitalism commonplace in this communist country.

The Bay of Pigs Museum was a nicely presented expected version of that sorry event.

Much of this day went to the long bus ride to Cienfuegos where we checked into the Hotel Union, circa 1869 http://www.hotellaunion.com/ and restored 1998-2000. It has a lovely inner courtyard where attentive staff offered welcome drinks. The rooms are first class with modern bathroom (bidet and bathtub). This was the nicest government-run hotel in our experience and could serve as a model for the many others that will benefit from restoration when funds become available.

Cienfuegos, a UNESCO world heritage site, offered many attractions on our Fifth Tour Day, the first being The Botanical Gardens, dating from 1899, where we enjoyed the services of botanist Hilda, expert in pan-tropical plants.

From here we visited Palacio de Valle http://www.cienfuegoscity.org/cienfuegos-city-arch-valle-palace.htm , circa 1914, built by a sugar cane baron whose wife enjoyed Spanish-Moorish architecture. This magnificent building has been converted into a restaurant with lovely root-top patio where we enjoyed a Ron Collins before lunch at the Paladar la Garto (Iguana), on Cienfuegos Bay.

Later, at the Plaza Marti (town square), we were joined by a local historian who summarized the attractions in the plaza: Teatro Tomas Terry which hosts world class classical entertainment, the Cathedral, a Vocational College and the oldest home in Cienfuegos.

Onward to the Casa del Abuellos, a day center for those over 60 years for $1/month. They greeted us with enthusiasm, proudly sang their national anthem and offered us a token gift of their hand crafts. We reciprocated with a choppy rendition of “You are my sunshine” and symbols of our homeland (lapel pins). There were hugs all around.

On the bus again, to Trinidad, on our Sixth Tour Day. In this 500 year old city we stopped at a maternity home for at-risk mothers-to-be, housing 27 women, girls really. There are staff nurses, a doctor, healthy meals and safe, clean lodgings.

At the Casa del Alfarero pottery factory our group purchased a variety of small pieces. In the Museo Architecturo Colonial are described late 1700's building techniques, including elaborate wood trim, decorated porcelain flush toilets, and a gas generator.

The Hotel Brisas Trinidad del Mar was the only all-inclusive resort that we used. Beach and pool time were pleasant. Mixed drinks were mostly sugary junk, except Catherine liked the Piña Colada. More palatable to Peter were the draft beer and Havana Club Reserva rum on ice. The meals were of the expected quality for government-run hotel.

Later we went into town for “clubbing” at Casa de la Trova (mix of locals and tourists). Drinks were covered by our tariff to Elder Treks. The locals were much better dancers than the members of our group, but we all had fun.

On our Seventh Tour Day we visited the Templo de Yemalla for an introduction to Santeria which is an amalgam of beliefs and rituals of the Yoruba and Bantu people of Nigeria, Senegal and Guinea Coast combined with elements of Catholicism. Our teacher was obviously committed to his beliefs.

We had fun at the Casa de la Musica in lessons with David Lopez of percussion instruments, including congas, bongos, maracas, guiro, timbal, clave, campana, and quijada (cow jaw).

After lunch we returned to the all-inclusive where Catherine got a haircut by Marta. 






 Later that afternoon we went out for a catamaran ride in a downpour. The rain was OK, but a mutiny occurred as the lightening got closer.

On our Eighth Tour Day we departed Trinidad del Mar, direct to Codina Park headquarters. To reach the interior of the park we transferred to a "Russian Limousine", a 2 ½ ton, three axle, all wheel drive off-road truck. Also known as a “multicultural deuce-and-a-half” (Russian body, Chinese engine, Cuban driver). 

We arrived at the hacienda of the former coffee plantation for welcome drinks (jincila cocktail) by Narigon (big nose). 














Our local guide, Genet, led a short hike to observe caverns, orchids, bamboo, Eucalyptus, Cuban pine, African tulip, and mahogany trees, among others. Numerous birds were spotted with Genet's help; vireos, red-legged thrush, green woodpecker feeding chicks, pewee, yellow-bellied sapsucker, Cuban Trogan. The hike made us eager for lunch.

After lunch at the hacienda we continued by bus to Santa Clara for a stop at the Che Guevara Memorial. The attached Mausoleum holds the remains of Che and 38 of his comrades killed

together in Bolivia while assisting a revolution there. Che is highly revered, not only for his efforts to overthrow Batista, but also for his many ministerial positions in post-revolutionary Cuba.

At the Hotel Los Caneyes http://www.hotelloscaneyes.com/, our group sat by the pool with beers sharing our impressions of the day's touring. The hotel grounds are pleasantly planted with eucalyptus and coconut trees. The design is intended to resemble a Taino-Arawak village. Lodging is in a series of “caneyes”, the Aboriginal-style of hut. There was an exceptional buffet dinner (more fresh veggies than usual),

On our Ninth Tour Day we began with boiled Quail eggs and made-to-order-omelet. At the memorial to the wreck/capture of an armored train at Santa Clara, we learned about the final armed engagement of the Revolution https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Santa_Clara . We visited the whimsical statue of Che at headquarters of the Communist Party (PCC), bivouac of Che after the train wreck and the flight of Batista from Cuba. 

Back at the central square there was an enjoyable dance exhibition at Theater La Caridad. 

This was followed by a bike-taxi ride around old town Santa Clara and lunch at Hotel American (shoe-leather pork and beef, overcooked hake, sad vegies).

Busing toward Havana on our Tenth Tour Day, we stopped at a Lagoon for a boat ride to a reproduction of an indigenous Taino Village and alligator viewing before lunch of delicious fish and live music.   We even provided some!

In the evening we went to The Tropicana for their famous cabaret show http://www.cabaret-tropicana.com/welcome.php?p=main&lang=en . Peter and Ted got on stage.

The Havana Club Rum Museum was visited on our Eleventh Tour Day for tasting (the 7-year old is splendid). 

After imbibing, we continued to Ernest Hemingway's Villa Finca Vigia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finca_Vig%C3%ADa Our local guide Katarina gave us a history-filled tour of the house (looking in doors and windows, no entry) and grounds.

After a nice lunch on the waterfront we paid a return visit to La Floridita for mojitos and daiquiris with live music. 

Back at the Hotel Presidente by coco taxi https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocotaxi it was rest time before our farewell dinner followed by a visit to the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Caba%C3%B1a for canon ceremony and nightly gate closing. Our group tour was over. Most of our new friends were to fly away early tomorrow.

On the next day, with residual members of our group, we walked to Habana Vieja for shopping and to the Taberna Muralla for “Tubo” Brews. This is apparently the only brew pub in Cuba and offers a variety of good beers in chilled “tubo”. It was a pleasant afternoon that extended into the evening, before our last night at The Hotel Presidente.

On our own again for our final day in Cuba, we returned to Habana Vieja to lodging at Marta's home.

Our "home stay" experience was splendid! We were the only guests in a spectacular old home for total Spanish immersion with host Marta. Dinner and breakfast were included for the very modest tariff. We will stay again with Marta! In fact, "home stay"is now definitely our preference.

Final Impressions

Food.

Fruit is plentiful and delicious (mango, guava, banana, plantains, papaya). The breads and pastries are varied and delicious. Fish and beef are often over-cooked. Fresh vegetables and green salads are scarce. Sausages and cheeses are uninspired. In Casa Particulars we did have some excellent lunches; a common selection being grilled lobster, fish or shrimp, Ropa Viejo, cucumbers and tomatoes, rice with red or black beans, and plantain chips. Mohitos (made with Yerba Verde) and daiquiris took the place of wines. There are a number of reasonable lager beers http://bestcubaguide.com/best-cuban-beers-locals-prefer/ . On occasion we were pleased with strawberry ice cream, banana liquor, espresso and cigars included with the meal.

Transportation.

The rate of individual ownership of cars seems to be low. Famously, there are many vintage US-built, mostly Fords and Chevrolets, in Havana used predominantly as taxis. The Soviet Union supplied Volgas, Moskvichs, Ladas and other Eastern Block cars, mainly for state use. In the countryside there are fewer cars and a wider variety of forms of transportation, including walking, bikes, horse carts, ox sleighs, motorbikes and buses. We observed numerous groups of 20-30 persons standing in wagons pulled by farm tractor. Hitchhiking is common, even by uniformed police and military personnel.

Accommodations.

Most of the larger hotels are owned and managed by the government (Cabanacon). Some of these are of exceptional quality, but the average standard is not high. We found hotel restaurants usually mediocre. These hotels are not good value for the price. In contrast are Paladars and Casa Particulars. http://www.boomertravelpatrol.com/new-cuba-casa-particular-paladarindex.php In these privately-owned and operated establishments a double room can be had for $20 to $30 per night plus meals. The rooms are small, but clean and usually air conditioned (in government hotels inoperative A/C is common). In terms of atmosphere, the Paladars and Casa Particulars, each unique, are far superior in our opinion.

Music

Live music is everywhere. Most of our lunches where enhanced by small groups playing in the dining room. It was common to hear beautiful traditional music from a 6 or 7 piece band. 

The rhumba and salsa pieces were authentic, rich and melodic. Classical guitar was a particular delight. Catherine bought a number of CD from these groups.

In Conclusion, we enthusiastically recommend Cuba as a touring destination. It is true that the beach resorts are splendid, and a welcome escape from the Canadian winter, but the country has so much more to offer for the active traveler. In fact, we are considering bicycle touring on our next visit, staying at Casa Particulars in the beautiful countryside, and immersing ourselves in the language and culture, away from the well-traveled paths followed by most tourists.

Peter and Catherine, now aboard S/V "Charlotte D", cruising the eastern Caribbean.