Report from The Nine Glens of Antrim, Northern Ireland

We left Riversdale early Oct 18 by hackney to Belturbet.  After coffee at The Corner Bistro, we boarded Bus Eirann to Dublin to pick up our car hire from National Europcar, pre-paid on the internet, but, in the usual fashion, undisclosed charges were tacked on by the "vultures."

We drove to Lanesborough, calling cousin Joan from Addie's Swan Pub from where she guided us to their lovely home along the banks of Lough Ree. After saying goodbye to their visitors from Illinois on their way to Paris, we were entertained in the “Homeplace”, laboriously renovated and decorated. They graciously put us up for the night in the "The Children's Place", another of their beautiful cottages. They have a serene and lovely Homestead.

After goodbyes, we were on the road again to Strokestown, (House and Gardens of the Pakenham Mahon Mansion, and attached Famine Museum). It was built on the site of the 16^th century castle, home of the O Conor Roe Gaelic Chieftains. The Landlord Major Denis Mahon was assassinated in November 1847 at the height of the Great Famine of Ireland and it is fitting that the Irish National Famine Museum was established at the Strokestown Park.

The six acre walled pleasure gardens have been restored to their original splendour and give an insight into horticultural design and architecture from the 1740's to the present. Henry Pakenham traveled extensively gathering plants and seeds from around the world. It includes a herbaceous border,  fernery,  lily pond, Victorian rose garden, pergola, peach house, vinery, fruit and vegetable garden..

The Great Irish Famine of the 1840's has been called the single greatest social disaster of 19^th century Europe. Between 1845 and 1850, when blight devastated the potato crop, in excess of two million people, almost one-quarter of the entire population, either died or emigrated. The Museum is twinned with Grosse Ile and the Irish Memorial National Historic Site, Grosse Ile, Quebec. Over 5,500 Irish immigrants are buried in mass graves at Grosse Ile.

The Museum, located in the original Stable Yards of Strokestown Park House, was designed to contrast the lives of the tenant farmers with those in "The Big House". Whereas the landlord class had the resources to leave an indelible mark on the landscape, the Irish tenants lived in poverty and nothing of a physical nature has survived to commemorate their lives. The surviving Mahon family documents include many haunting pleas from starving tenants and the responses they received.

In a pattern repeated throughout Ireland, English Lords assumed control of farms that had been owned and worked by Irish. When hard times came, the Irish tenant farmers could no longer pay their taxes or tithes to the Lord and were displaced. The fortunate families exchanged their land for ship passage to North America. The wealthy Lords varied in their compassion for their tenants. Disease was rampant and education did not exist, except for the wealthy. The Famine Museum documents the story of Irish workhouses.

Of course, without tenant farmers, income to the Lords declined, and the descendants of the Lords eventually lost their inherited fortunes. Mansions were turned into museums and many were destroyed. The last inhabitants of the Strokestown Park House sustained themselves by selling their paintings and furnishings bit by bit and lived their last years in a single room on the lower level to minimize heat costs, before dying in poverty. The sad history of that era, and the aftermath, is much more complex than we had realized.  

Remaining artifacts and furnishings from bygone years were on display in an interesting mansion tour. 





You can read more at www.enjoy-irish-culture.com 

We went on to Tulsk to The Rathcragan Bronze Age Visitor Center, with its interesting dioramas. The archeological investigations of Druid ringforts from the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages are well-described. The concentric circles of burial mounds commemorated their dead.








Oweynagat, “The Cave of the Cats” is one of the three main entrances to the “Otherworld”. It is the “fit abode” of Morrigan, the Goddess of Battle and Fertility. It was thought that it kept some away from the “Hell's Mouth of Ireland.”

In the same neighborhood, we visited the 1448 Dominican Priory and Cemetery, which was part of the O'Cona Rua, where current day Christian inhabitants commemorate their deceased with fresh flowers to the grave sites of their loved ones still today. Not much change since the times of the Druids.

We continued on towards Leitrim Lodge where we stayed overnight after a nice roast beef, potato and vegetable dinner with Guinness.

The next day we visited Donegal, where I must surely have many relatives. 







 



We had a delightful lunch at the Olde Castle Bar after a self-guided tour of The Donegal Castle. 














 
Donegal was busy with tour buses and we were soon on our way to Drumcorrey Farmhouse, pausing for a brief, but intense, hail storm.

At the Drumcorrey Farmhouse B&B, we met Martina and Pat, our hosts. We were treated to the pleasure of Pat playing the fiddle.




Click the video below for a sample of traditional Irish fiddle music

One of my most treasured experiences was Pat working his sheepdogs.    





 He has won many sheepdog trophies and is currently training five more pedigree Border Collies. 

 Click on the video for a sample of how the dogs work the sheep.

We headed to the Roe Valley Country Park where we had lunch in the tea room. There were many walkers with dogs.  There is a statue to the wolf-hound who saved the king by leaping across the river to deliver a message. Unfortunately, most of the attractions here were closed for the season.

We traveled around Port Rush and Coleraine and managed to find economical lodging at fancy Atlantic Golf Hotel where we ate dinner of parsnip soup and chicken wings. The north shore has many RV parks of seasonal “caravans”, surrounded by golf courses. We were glad not to be there during peak tourist season as we understand traffic can by bumper-to-bumper.

The next morning, we visited Dunluce Castle, spectacular on the sea coast with an interesting visitor centre.

This 14^th century castle, still in good repair, was home to the MacQuninlan's and MacDonnells from Scotland. It is reputed to have dozens of ghosts: servants, a daughter of former inhabitants, the MacQuillans and an English constable. The daughter was to elope with Peter Carey, set to be hanged when part of the castle fell into the ocean in the winter of 1639.

The Castle was once a bustling community centre before it was attacked during the Irish Rebellion in 1641 and abandoned in 1680.

Other historical tid-bits include: The King of Norway, Magus, lost his head, after plundering Dunluce.  The Norseman's silver is still undiscovered.  Rober Senuit recovered the sunken treasure of the Spanish Armada. The Scottish pirate Black Tavish lost his life along with his treasure from four English vessels bringing provisions for the Earl of Ulster.





The remnants of Hurricane Gonzalo only added to the telling of these ghost stories, turning the weather wet and windy. Ferries to the out islands were ruled out by the unruly sea.

It was an interesting tour of The Old Bushmill's Distillery, the oldest whiskey distillery in Ireland dating from 1608. We watched with dismay as the quality control officer dumped out a case of whiskey in which we could not perceive a deficit. Made us cry! 

 We enjoyed sampling of their products early that morning (whiskey for breakfast).

Departing Bushmill's, we visited tiny Portballintrae, a scenic harbour. Plaques describe days of yore, when in the 1700's schooners loaded lime from the kiln there. It was surprising to see dracenas on the hillsides. We did not know that they grew this far north. Occupants of charming cottages have fantastic ocean views.

The Giant's Causeway and Visitor Centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site was our next stop. The geology is fascinating, with 40,000 interlocking basalt columns resulting from intense volcanic and geologic activity, over 60 million years. 

 Click on the video to sample the unusual seaside rock formations.

We learned the folk story of Finn McCool, who built a causeway from Antrim to Scotland to challenge his enemy, the Scottish Giant, Benandonner, to battle. Finn was horrified that Bennadonner was much bigger than he had anticipated, but Finn tricked Benandonner by dressing himself as a babe.  Benandonner took flight at the thought of the “baby's” father and ran back to Scotland on the stones breaking the causeway as he went.

A pleasant night was spent in Fragren's B&B, where breakfast was another “Ulster Fry”.

This part of Northern Ireland is characterized by a series of deep Glens which run from the mountains to the North Channel of the Irish Sea. These are known as the Nine Glens of Antrim and are the product of glaciation during the last Ice Age. The Sea of Moyle on the rocky shores, the coast of Scotland, and the Mull of Kintyre were visible from our Glen House Hotel room window (only 16 miles away). The people are welcoming, the air is fresh and the countryside beautiful. The hedges are made of well-maintained hawthorne shrub. Traditional stone walls, hill farms, winding streams, cattle, sheep, peaceful landscapes and spectacular views are everywhere.

The Irish have many folk stories of fairies, giants, leprechauns, banshees and other spirits. Though mainly Christian, they hold many ancient superstitions, particularly about death and dying, as noted during our visit to ruins of 1400's Bonamargy Friary and grave yard. We happened to be visiting around Halloween time and encountered a teacher taking his very attentive class, explaining some of the handed-down superstitions (e.g., seeing into the “otherworld” by looking through holes in stones). He agreed to us tagging along to hear his presentations. We learned the story of the Black Nun, Julia McQuillan, who could predict the future.

We drove through Ballypatrick Forest, under the Glendun Viaduct, up the Glendun along the river with many side roads, little traveled. We met cyclists, salmon fishermen, hikers and photographers taking in the beautiful woods, streams and waterfalls. 

We headed to Glenariff and saw the Grey Mare's Tail (waterfall) and on to Laragh Waterfall.







Click on this video to appreciate the Glenariff Waterfall.




After a nice walk we had lunch at the lodge, decorated for Halloween (roast beef with Yorkshire, pudding, a side of mash, peas and carrots and potato leek soup with brown bread).

We left Hotel Glens, the oldest hotel in Antrim, located in Cushendun after a nice breakfast. We walked along the beach/golf course and later went north to Cushendun and Knocknarry. We walked on the beach, learned about the Irish game of hurling vs lacrosse, saw many colours of hydrangeas, and dracenas. There were fish farms, seals, oil rigs, lovely harbours, and ring-necked pheasants.

We passed Waterfoot Harbour, passed the Glencloy village and Carnlough and enjoyed the marina and old town. 


Mothers pushing their prams along the road, very little trafic to worry about. Everyone stops and chats when they pass by.

Folklore is alive and well along the Antrim Coast and Glens. The area has always had associations with the "wee" folk. Many of the place names reflect this tradition such as Feystown (town of the fairies), Breen (the fairy palace) and Skeagh (the fairy thorn). There are the legends of Ossian, the "Children of Lir", and Julia McQuillan, Bonamargy's "Black Nun", who could predict the future.

Cushendun is one of the prettiest villages on the coast. We discovered the sea caves, then traveled south along the coastal route passing Ossian's grave (warrior, bard and part son of Giant Fin McCool). 




The story is that Ossian left his love, Namagh, in Tir Na Nog, land of everlasting youth, on horseback. He passed an old woman who he lept down to help and, upon touching the earth, instantly died

Glenarm is one of the oldest villages on the coast, the home of the Antrim McDonnels. It includes the remains of a Franciscan friary, the private Glenarm Castle, the Barbicon gate and the old core of the village from the 19th century. 



We drove to the start of the Sculpture Trail at the Glenarm Forest Park, but decided not to walk in the forest because of the rain.

Ballygally Castle was built in 1625 by James Shaw and his wife Isabella Brisbane. He came from Scotland in 1606 to occupy a sub-grant of land from the Earl of Antrim, on which land they built the castle. The Castle served as a place of refuge for protestants during the civil war.  In 1799, the castle passed to the last squire, William Shaw. In the 1800's, the Shaws lost all their money and the estate was sold. It was a Coast Guard Station and now a first-class hotel and restaurant.

Ballygally Castle retains many of it's original features, including turreted bedrooms and three ghosts. 

Catherine wore a ghost cape of Lady Isabelle Shaw who fell to her death from her locked room trying to escape from Lord Shaw, to search for her infant.

We visited haunted castles surrounded by ancient city walls with legendary tales, secret tunnels (and continual major renovations). We were lucky to be in Carrickfergus during the Halloween season to enjoy the variety of costumed reenactors portraying, friars, Kings, Queens, musicians, jesters, and knights 

While in Carrickfergus we went for lunch to the 400 year old Dobbins Hotel with cod, champs, and Caesar salad. According to legend there is a tunnel to the castle.

Another enjoyable stop was at the Andrew Jackson home in Carrickfergus. There we were pleased to meet two very knowledgeable docents who answered many of our questions about the Ulsters, Scottish, British and North American influences in Ireland. On the same grounds was a thatch roofed museum dedicated to the US Army Rangers who were stationed in Northern Ireland during World War II.

Andrew Jackson was one of eight presidents born as British Subjects before the USA was formed.

We drove through the busy city of Larne to Gleno to find Billy Andy's Pub Inn and Restaurant. Dinner was the BEST.

We learned of a traditional music jam session to be held at Billy Andy's the next day. It was well-attended, hardly room to move. The variety of musical instruments was amazing: fiddles, guitars, flutes, bodhran, banjo, mandolin, accordion and viola. We will return to Billy Andy's for “trad”music starting at 3:30 Saturdays (www.billyandy's.com ). 

 Click on the video for a sample of the jam session.

We were referred to Derrin's Four Star Guest Home in Larne, quite comfortable and handy for visiting Belfast, but we were out of time. After a Full Irish breakfast with beans, we left Derrin's Guest House.

We stopped for lunch at Dooley's Carvery,  with many families of young children, all who were PERFECTLY behaved.  Passing through the town of Ardee there where many HUGH tractors lining the streets of town center and farmers collecting money for hospice, certainly a unique way for fund raising.

Our last night in Ireland was spent at the Dublin Airport Manor, just 5 minutes from the airport. The next morning we left on Ryan Air for Zadar, Croatia (subject of our next posting).

“Progress is impossible without change, and those that cannot change their mind, cannot change anything”. George Bernard Shaw, Irish playwright

Catherine and Peter, now aboard the sailing vessel Charlotte D in the Southern Caribbean. 

Report from the Croatian Coast and Islands

We enjoyed self-touring by car along the coast of Croatia and some of the off-lying islands prior to a guided-tour with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT, www.Oattravel.com ). Ryanair carried us from Dublin, Ireland, across the Italian Alps to Zadar, Croatia, for 65€ each.

Encouragement to explore the Croatian Islands came from sailing friends from Croatia that we met in the Bahamas, our family doctor and his wife who described it glowingly and shared photos of their trip, and an OAT friend, who drove herself and managing well in English. From these friends we received recommendations on sights and local cuisine, as well as assurances that we did not need pre-booked accommodations. We thank them for their accurate descriptions.

The coastal highway south from Zadar is highly scenic, and led to a small waterfront community, Brodarica, across from the island of Krapanj. We settled into the Guesthouse Zlatna Ribica (60 €/night), with view of the harbour from our balcony, where we enjoyed our first biella wine and Karlovacko beer.

The included breakfast at Guesthouse Zlatna Ribica included yogurt, muesli, juice, tea, white latte, mojarka, soft-boiled eggs, prosciutto, another ham, salami, illigren cream cheese, hard cheese, pastetso, and a selection of lovely breads. Such a lovely breakfast selection was typical of our lodgings throughout Croatia.

This was our base for two days of local exploring. We picked up a few important words of Croatian, "hvala” (thank you), “dobra dan” (good day), and “do videnja” (goodbye).

There is a passenger ferry between Brodarica and Krapanj Island. The ferry was laden with fresh flowers in preparation for the All Saints Day decorating of cemeteries. The small (240 persons), ancient community of Krapanj is surrounded by a high city wall.

There are no automobiles on the island. Lovely gardens are tended by elderly women in black dresses and kerchiefs, bent over to cultivate with short-handled hoes. Historically, the community was supported by sponge diving and olive cultivation. Summer tourism is more important now.

In Sibenik, we visited the Cathedral of St. Michael and it's pearl, the baptistry. The Cathedral was constructed over 105 years (1431-1536), and consecrated in 1555. It is a UNESCO world heritage site since 2000 when the dome was renewed after shell damage in the war of 1991. Repairs continue to this day.

The Fortress of St. Michael, on the hilltop overlooking Sibenik, was built during the 13^th to 18^th centuries. Archeological excavations revealed prehistoric and medieval remains. Two city walls extend from the fortress to the coast to terminate at a large Gothic gate. The renovated Fortress is now a modern outdoor theater hosting summer events with 1077 seats.



On our way to Split the next morning we passed numerous charter yacht marinas. Seems like wonderful territory for charter sailboats! We may come back to do just that.

Along the coastal highway there are warnings of wild boar, “camps” (RV parks), olive groves, stone-walled gardens, vineyards, and prominent slip-faults (parallel ridges across the mountain sides).

We boarded a Jadrolinja car ferry from Split to the island of Vis. On the ferry we met Mara, soliciting her Vis apartment for rent. We were pleased she approached us, for we had no advance lodging reservations anywhere on this trip. Communication was achieved with the very few shared words.

Without guidance from Mara we would not have found her apartment, which is accessed by walking up into the narrow, convoluted lanes of the old town, where no cars can enter. We followed Mara up hills and stairs to her studio apartment with a balcony shaded with grape vines and a waiting bottle of homemade wine. Of course, Mara joined us in a glass. Later she brought us other treats (homemade schnapps and lemons for our morning tea). A perfect hostess. Look for her on the ferry to Vis!

 

Vis is a remote island in the Croatian Adriatic, famous for its wine. Visitors find the towns of Vis and Komizo rich in history and wild mountain scenery. It is the farthest island from the central Dalmatian coast. It served as a base for Yugoslav Military during the socialist years and was closed to foreign visitors from 1950 to 1989. There was an underground submarine base. Tito was proud of his submarines.

We were amazed to find, while exploring remote shorelines, evidence of explosions (shelling?) in coastal rock. There are old bunkers, gun platforms, and remains of a large airfield. Older forts from days of British rule during the reign of George III (1812) were renovated for the 1950's military.

During those decades of military occupation Vis was abandoned by much of the local population. This history has made Vis today a popular destination for travelers seeking an unspoilt and authentic pocket of the Adriatic.

It is a step back in time, frozen as it was in 1950. It produces some of Croatia's best wines (white vugava, and red plavac). The two towns on the island of Vis are picturesque 17^th century settlements overlooking pebble bays lapped by crystal-clear Adriatic waters.

Vis town is perfect for strolling the waterfront, shopping along the way for smoked Tripan (Trapist) cheese, pastetsa (like liverwurst), rustic loaf bread, local oranges, eggplant and pomegranate , salami, and prosciutto. Of course, the island's wines are readily available. ATMs worked flawlessly throughout Croatia.

We decided to splurge for Roki's seafood “peka”, a traditional way of cooking. A cast iron bell seals in the flavours and juices as meats, fish, octopus and vegetables cook up to three hours on a bed of charcoal. Unique presentation of delicious food, accompanied by fine local wine, mali placa.

We did not object to the cat in the dining room, because it was hard at work.

On our second day on the island of Vis, after our early morning walk, we drove around the island, and explored the town of Komiza, stopping for beer and wine outdoors in the ancient square.

On the way back to Vis town we chanced upon a delightful restaurant overlooking Komiza Bay, Pojada, where Peter once again took notice of an outdoor kitchen. We enjoyed an aperitif "orahovac" (Dalmatian green walnut wine). This was followed by grilled squid and bocad'or (a local fish, “golden mouth”) with green salad.

Our time on Vis was spent wandering without specific destination. We discovered lovely harbours, the nudist beaches, saw a large conger eel brought to shore, herring for sale from the fishing boats, and stopped for coffee with local elderly men heatedly discussing their favoured “futbal” teams. “Barcelona! No, Liverpool!”

Back on the mainland again, we happened upon two monumental oriental plane trees (trunk diameter 3.66 m), brought to Croatia as seedlings by Captain Antunov from Constantinople in the 15^th Century. They survive to this day in what is now the Trsteno National Botanical Heritage Garden.

We drove further south along the coast to Makurska, arriving late. It is a scenic location, with mountains rising steeply from the gravel beach. Nevertheless, Makurska was disappointing, to us . It is, for us, too large of a town, with too large, modern “luxury”, hotels. We found economical lodging (“Zimmer”) for the night, but, unfortunately, the hosts smoked in the downstairs kitchen open to the stairwell. There was a nice dinner at Ivo Restorans, where several young couples amused us by texting throughout their “romantic” dinner. There was an appetizer of Coquille St. Jacques (with few scallops), and main course of grilled squid, spinach and potatoes, plus a three-seafood ravioli with creme sauce and basil. Digestif was a plum liquor.

In the morning, after a bakery (pekarna) stop for pastry, coffee and tea, we continued south, clearing in and out with customs and immigration to cross the narrow coast of Bosnia-Herzegovina and back into Croatia. We drove towards the Peljesac Peninsula viewing Mali Ston Castle and Wall for miles before arriving. We enjoyed lunch at Vila Koruna, Mali Ston. Because there are many oyster, mussel and other shellfish farms in this area, we decided to fortify ourselves with oysters on half-shell, oysters gratinee and grilled vegetables. We received gratis souvenir packets of sea salt from the Ston saltworks.

Catherine made plans to lead the Ston Wall Marathon.

On to Korcula from Obrejic aboard another Jadrolinja ship. This is the greenest, most independent and interesting of Croatia's 1,000 islands. Korcula is well-known for Korcula Old Town, the Moreska sword dance, and reputed birthplace of Marco Polo.

Found delightful lodging for two nights in Old Town Korcula, on the waterfront, with host, Petar Gatti. He welcomed us with anisette from the nearby town of Bloto.

No breakfasts included, but with refrigerator and kettle we took care of ourselves (hvali, feta in olive oil, bread, chocolate strudel, mandarin oranges and tea).

M/V Artemis (Grand Circle Cruise Line) docked at the Quay of the Old Town. Seems to accommodate about 50 passengers.

The Queen Elizabeth entered the harbour and anchored off. Soon multitudes of passengers came ashore. We discovered that very few of them walked more than a few hundred feet up the steep alleys of the Old Town, so that is where we went. We attended Mass at St. Mark's Cathedral. Well, standing room only, so we stayed a few minutes anyway. The Marco Polo Museum is interesting. The most pleasant time to walk around Old Town on that day was after 1630 when cruise ship customers were back on board their floating hotel.





Now it was time to leave Korcula and continue our way slowly towards Dubrovnik. We took the return ferry to Obrejic stopping at vineyard Tonci Madirazza where we were introduced to Dingac 2010, among other fine local wines.

Another dinner in Mali Ston.  This time at Restoran Bota Sare, which is built inside a domed former salt warehouse. 


Vishyna, our waitress, showed us to the wine cellar to choose a delicious local wine. 





Our meal was a dish with assorted shellfish, new to us and farmed locally. Vishyna introduced us to Klapa music by playing a CD by Tomislav Bralic “Klapa Intrade”. Click on this link Zasto uvik pivan – Tomislav Bralic I klapa intrade (TVSPOT) . In addition to beautiful music, this link highlights beautiful Croatian scenery and handsome Croatian men!

The Apartman Stara Kuca is nearby. We happened upon it while exploring inside the 700 year old city walls of Old Town Mali Ston. Proprietor Nada speaks no English, so Cousin Milo interpreted. Located in a 500 year old building, it is a modern two bedroom apartment with in-floor heating, clothes washer/dryer, dishwasher, TV, CD player, fancy Gorenje stovetop, and refrigerator/freezer. And it came with a bag of clementines from Nada! It was cold, rainy weather, so we booked for two nights.

Next morning, after fruit and tea at the Mali Ston apartment, we were off to the Ston pekarna for pastries, coffee and internet . The majority of this rainy, windy day was spent planning our coming trip from Ljubljana to Venice and beyond. We went around another corner for a three-hour Croatian lunch: wine, fish pate, oyster soup, breaded oysters, pork shish kebab and garden salad.

Goodbyes ("hvala” and “do videnja”) and a gift of a Canadian Flag lapel pin to Nada. Of course, we gave and received hugs and kisses to send us on our way to Dubrovnik. We dropped our car hire and checked into The Grand Hotel Villa Park, where we met Edo, Trip Leader Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), and our traveling companions for the second week of our Adriatic Adventure.

The OAT tour “Crossroads of the Adriatic” will be the subject of our next posting.

Catherine and Peter, now aboard S/V “Charlotte D” in the southern Caribbean.

“Bring ideas in and entertain them royally, for one of them may be the King”.

Mark VanDoren, United States poet and scholar.