Cuba Reflections 2015

Cuba Reflections 2015

Not to neglect it's impact upon the Cuban population, the U.S. Embargo has impoverished U.S. citizens by impeding their travel to this neighboring country which has so much to offer. On the other hand, we feel that the Embargo has preserved a treasure.

During our visit, May 7- 22, we met tourists from Ireland, Canada, Japan, China, Israel, several African countries, France, Brazil, Venezuela, Uruguay, Ecuador, Mexico, Russia, and Germany. Many visitors travel little beyond the enjoyable beach resorts, and for those who do travel more widely there are opportunities to see and do much.

The population of Cuba was 11.1 million at the last census, in a land area of 109,884 sq km (42,426 sq mi), the largest island in the Antilles. The population is mostly whites (64%), while minorities include mulatto/mestizo (27%) and black (9%). Life expectancy is 78 years, the same as in the US and slightly lower than in Canada.

We arrived in Havana direct from Toronto aboard Air Canada. Customs and Immigration were fast and easy. Enrique shepherded us through the Cambio and rum shop before driving us the 30 min to the Hotel Roc Presidente, located near the famous Malecon and a pleasant walk to Habana Vieja.

Its location is one of the few admirable features of this hotel. This is a government-run hotel, which often means that the staff, though well-attired and polite, are not particularly enthusiastic. The physical plant needs significant refreshing.

On the morning after our arrival, we enjoyed the desayuno buffet at the hotel before striding off to explore Havana, walking east along the Malecon. 

We passed the well-guarded U.S. Interests Section, re-designated The U.S. Embassy since our visit. Our walk proceeded to the Hotel Nacional de Cuba  http://www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com/en/history.asp and along 23 Ave with it's profusion of 1950's U.S.- made cars. 

We stopped at the Hotel Habana Libre  (Havana Hilton before the Revolution) to view the display of photos of Fidel and Che billeting there upon their take-over of Havana https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hotel_Tryp_Habana_Libre . Then it was across the street to the privately-owned shop Las Bulerias for beer (Cacique) and street viewing.

Our Favourite!  Bucanero Fuerte!  Catherine's favourite is a Mojito!

Habana Vieja was founded by Spain in 1519. Many fortifications date from the 1500s. There are numerous old buildings which have been wonderfully restored, with more undergoing restoration.

However, this part of Havana is suffering a sad decay of it's circa 1900's baroque and neoclassical residential buildings. It's obvious that this residential section was once beautiful. Marble columns, floors and stairs remain in the midst of crumbling facades and collapsing roofs. Age and neglect have combined with severe weather (hurricanes) to threaten the future of this historic town. We walked local neighborhoods of 3-5 story decaying tenements along narrow streets with few automobiles. Residents were sitting on stoops before open doors and children playing in the quiet streets. There are veggie stands, many dogs, and laundry drying on balconies. Trash is not well-managed in these neighborhoods. There are street beggars. Likely as not banos outside hotels are without toilet seats, tissue, lights, faucets, or door latches.

Residents were sitting on stoops before open doors and children playing in the quiet streets. There are veggie stands, many dogs, and laundry drying on balconies. Trash is not well-managed in these neighborhoods. There are street beggars. Likely as not banos outside hotels are without toilet seats, tissue, lights, faucets, or door latches.

On our second day of independent exploration of Havana we visited the Museum of the Revolution with many photos labeled in Spanish and English. There are numerous military artifacts, including the M/V “Granma” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granma_(yacht) which carried Fidel and Raul Castro, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos, among some 80 others, back to Cuba from Mexico to restart the Revolution in 1956.

After lunch in a local restaurant (equivalent to US $10 for both of us) we hired a bike-taxi ($5) to theNational Museum of Fine Art and again to “La Floridita” bar, which opened in 1871 and originated the daiquiri in the 1930s. 

Ernest Hemingway has been given a special place at their bar.   

Floridita is a busy place musically.  We hope you enjoy this short video.

We enjoyed the live quartet with a beer and a daiquiri ($10). Purchased a quart of rum for $9 at nearby grocery, before hiring a proud driver and his beautiful 1955 Chevy (original V8 sounds good) for $10 trip back to hotel.

Our Elder Treks Tour started on our third day. Our Cuban-born guide Alex spoke perfect English and did a splendid job of introducing us to his country. He effectively managed many small and larger aspects of the tour.  Tony drove us safely throughout and managed luggage and cold water.  Thank you, Alex and Tony.

Our First Tour Day was for Plazas, Palaces, Prados, Cathedrals and Castellos in and about Habana Vieja. A splendid collection of beautiful buildings. We enjoyed the mimes, musicians, “cigar gentlemen”, and traditionally-clad ladies.

There was a welcome refreshment stop at the Hotel Ambos Mundos, circa 1920, where Ernest Hemingway resided, and imbibed, while writing several short stories. We rode the creaky bellhop-operated elevator to the roof-top bar with splendid views.  

There are many pedestrian only streets in Habana Viejo.

The musical highlight of the day was listening to the Buena Vista Social Club https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaerapRPS64 at the Cafe Taverna after dinner.

The first stop of our Second Tour Day was an interesting visit to the Farmer's Market at Miramar, where Alex introduced us to facets of the economy and the confusing dual currencies http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Travel-g147270-c109329/Cuba:Caribbean:Money.Exchange.html.

Then it was off into the rural countryside to Valle de los Ingenios / Viñales Valley. The first stop was Las Terraces, a colonial French coffee plantation, now the Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve of tropical mountain forest http://www.cubanaturetravel.com/biosphere-reserves . Our local guide, Ysidro, led a short forest hike, showing us many birds and plants (and often their medicinal uses).

When the Biosphere Reserve was formed, some of the existing residents were displaced to a newly constructed “commune”, which includes a “mixto” school; preschool to high school and technical training. We visited the school and enjoyed the interactions.

We lodged two nights at the Hotel Jazmine Pinar del Rio, lounging around the pool in afternoons with beers and swimming before dinner. Guitar and violin playing in dinning room.

A cigar factory was first stop on our Third Tour Day. Government run, like a sweat-shop, dense seating in small room, workers paid by number of cigars, no photos allowed. The cigars for sale are likely knock-off Cohibas http://coolmaterial.com/feature/decoded-how-to-spot-fake-cohibas/

This visit initiated more discussion with Alex about the complex, multi-tier economy and what might result from anticipated improved relations with the US.

Before lunch we had a walk and boat ride through the Caveo of Indians. 

This was scenic, but we did not learn about the present state of the Taino-Arawak Indians whose ancestors met Columbus when he lead the first European invasion of Cuba. A topic for further research. 



 We learned of the folklore of Hatuey, an Arawak chief who, before being burned at the stake by Spaniards (1512), was offered baptism so he could go to heaven. Hatuey refused baptism saying, “If heaven is the place that Spaniards go, I don't want to go”.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatuey

Along the way we meet a very "horney" water buffalo who wanted his picture taken.

We enjoyed another wonderful Paladar meal with music.

On our Fourth Tour Day we stopped at a tobacco farm to learn about how the government regulates and taxes tobacco farmers. The seed is issued by and most of the product goes to the government. Farmers retain a portion of the product for their own uses. We visited the drying houses and had a lesson in cigar making. We purchased a few cigars directly from the farmer ($2 each). Yet another example of the small-scale capitalism commonplace in this communist country.

The Bay of Pigs Museum was a nicely presented expected version of that sorry event.

Much of this day went to the long bus ride to Cienfuegos where we checked into the Hotel Union, circa 1869 http://www.hotellaunion.com/ and restored 1998-2000. It has a lovely inner courtyard where attentive staff offered welcome drinks. The rooms are first class with modern bathroom (bidet and bathtub). This was the nicest government-run hotel in our experience and could serve as a model for the many others that will benefit from restoration when funds become available.

Cienfuegos, a UNESCO world heritage site, offered many attractions on our Fifth Tour Day, the first being The Botanical Gardens, dating from 1899, where we enjoyed the services of botanist Hilda, expert in pan-tropical plants.

From here we visited Palacio de Valle http://www.cienfuegoscity.org/cienfuegos-city-arch-valle-palace.htm , circa 1914, built by a sugar cane baron whose wife enjoyed Spanish-Moorish architecture. This magnificent building has been converted into a restaurant with lovely root-top patio where we enjoyed a Ron Collins before lunch at the Paladar la Garto (Iguana), on Cienfuegos Bay.

Later, at the Plaza Marti (town square), we were joined by a local historian who summarized the attractions in the plaza: Teatro Tomas Terry which hosts world class classical entertainment, the Cathedral, a Vocational College and the oldest home in Cienfuegos.

Onward to the Casa del Abuellos, a day center for those over 60 years for $1/month. They greeted us with enthusiasm, proudly sang their national anthem and offered us a token gift of their hand crafts. We reciprocated with a choppy rendition of “You are my sunshine” and symbols of our homeland (lapel pins). There were hugs all around.

On the bus again, to Trinidad, on our Sixth Tour Day. In this 500 year old city we stopped at a maternity home for at-risk mothers-to-be, housing 27 women, girls really. There are staff nurses, a doctor, healthy meals and safe, clean lodgings.

At the Casa del Alfarero pottery factory our group purchased a variety of small pieces. In the Museo Architecturo Colonial are described late 1700's building techniques, including elaborate wood trim, decorated porcelain flush toilets, and a gas generator.

The Hotel Brisas Trinidad del Mar was the only all-inclusive resort that we used. Beach and pool time were pleasant. Mixed drinks were mostly sugary junk, except Catherine liked the Piña Colada. More palatable to Peter were the draft beer and Havana Club Reserva rum on ice. The meals were of the expected quality for government-run hotel.

Later we went into town for “clubbing” at Casa de la Trova (mix of locals and tourists). Drinks were covered by our tariff to Elder Treks. The locals were much better dancers than the members of our group, but we all had fun.

On our Seventh Tour Day we visited the Templo de Yemalla for an introduction to Santeria which is an amalgam of beliefs and rituals of the Yoruba and Bantu people of Nigeria, Senegal and Guinea Coast combined with elements of Catholicism. Our teacher was obviously committed to his beliefs.

We had fun at the Casa de la Musica in lessons with David Lopez of percussion instruments, including congas, bongos, maracas, guiro, timbal, clave, campana, and quijada (cow jaw).

After lunch we returned to the all-inclusive where Catherine got a haircut by Marta. 






 Later that afternoon we went out for a catamaran ride in a downpour. The rain was OK, but a mutiny occurred as the lightening got closer.

On our Eighth Tour Day we departed Trinidad del Mar, direct to Codina Park headquarters. To reach the interior of the park we transferred to a "Russian Limousine", a 2 ½ ton, three axle, all wheel drive off-road truck. Also known as a “multicultural deuce-and-a-half” (Russian body, Chinese engine, Cuban driver). 

We arrived at the hacienda of the former coffee plantation for welcome drinks (jincila cocktail) by Narigon (big nose). 














Our local guide, Genet, led a short hike to observe caverns, orchids, bamboo, Eucalyptus, Cuban pine, African tulip, and mahogany trees, among others. Numerous birds were spotted with Genet's help; vireos, red-legged thrush, green woodpecker feeding chicks, pewee, yellow-bellied sapsucker, Cuban Trogan. The hike made us eager for lunch.

After lunch at the hacienda we continued by bus to Santa Clara for a stop at the Che Guevara Memorial. The attached Mausoleum holds the remains of Che and 38 of his comrades killed

together in Bolivia while assisting a revolution there. Che is highly revered, not only for his efforts to overthrow Batista, but also for his many ministerial positions in post-revolutionary Cuba.

At the Hotel Los Caneyes http://www.hotelloscaneyes.com/, our group sat by the pool with beers sharing our impressions of the day's touring. The hotel grounds are pleasantly planted with eucalyptus and coconut trees. The design is intended to resemble a Taino-Arawak village. Lodging is in a series of “caneyes”, the Aboriginal-style of hut. There was an exceptional buffet dinner (more fresh veggies than usual),

On our Ninth Tour Day we began with boiled Quail eggs and made-to-order-omelet. At the memorial to the wreck/capture of an armored train at Santa Clara, we learned about the final armed engagement of the Revolution https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Santa_Clara . We visited the whimsical statue of Che at headquarters of the Communist Party (PCC), bivouac of Che after the train wreck and the flight of Batista from Cuba. 

Back at the central square there was an enjoyable dance exhibition at Theater La Caridad. 

This was followed by a bike-taxi ride around old town Santa Clara and lunch at Hotel American (shoe-leather pork and beef, overcooked hake, sad vegies).

Busing toward Havana on our Tenth Tour Day, we stopped at a Lagoon for a boat ride to a reproduction of an indigenous Taino Village and alligator viewing before lunch of delicious fish and live music.   We even provided some!

In the evening we went to The Tropicana for their famous cabaret show http://www.cabaret-tropicana.com/welcome.php?p=main&lang=en . Peter and Ted got on stage.

The Havana Club Rum Museum was visited on our Eleventh Tour Day for tasting (the 7-year old is splendid). 

After imbibing, we continued to Ernest Hemingway's Villa Finca Vigia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finca_Vig%C3%ADa Our local guide Katarina gave us a history-filled tour of the house (looking in doors and windows, no entry) and grounds.

After a nice lunch on the waterfront we paid a return visit to La Floridita for mojitos and daiquiris with live music. 

Back at the Hotel Presidente by coco taxi https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocotaxi it was rest time before our farewell dinner followed by a visit to the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Caba%C3%B1a for canon ceremony and nightly gate closing. Our group tour was over. Most of our new friends were to fly away early tomorrow.

On the next day, with residual members of our group, we walked to Habana Vieja for shopping and to the Taberna Muralla for “Tubo” Brews. This is apparently the only brew pub in Cuba and offers a variety of good beers in chilled “tubo”. It was a pleasant afternoon that extended into the evening, before our last night at The Hotel Presidente.

On our own again for our final day in Cuba, we returned to Habana Vieja to lodging at Marta's home.

Our "home stay" experience was splendid! We were the only guests in a spectacular old home for total Spanish immersion with host Marta. Dinner and breakfast were included for the very modest tariff. We will stay again with Marta! In fact, "home stay"is now definitely our preference.

Final Impressions

Food.

Fruit is plentiful and delicious (mango, guava, banana, plantains, papaya). The breads and pastries are varied and delicious. Fish and beef are often over-cooked. Fresh vegetables and green salads are scarce. Sausages and cheeses are uninspired. In Casa Particulars we did have some excellent lunches; a common selection being grilled lobster, fish or shrimp, Ropa Viejo, cucumbers and tomatoes, rice with red or black beans, and plantain chips. Mohitos (made with Yerba Verde) and daiquiris took the place of wines. There are a number of reasonable lager beers http://bestcubaguide.com/best-cuban-beers-locals-prefer/ . On occasion we were pleased with strawberry ice cream, banana liquor, espresso and cigars included with the meal.

Transportation.

The rate of individual ownership of cars seems to be low. Famously, there are many vintage US-built, mostly Fords and Chevrolets, in Havana used predominantly as taxis. The Soviet Union supplied Volgas, Moskvichs, Ladas and other Eastern Block cars, mainly for state use. In the countryside there are fewer cars and a wider variety of forms of transportation, including walking, bikes, horse carts, ox sleighs, motorbikes and buses. We observed numerous groups of 20-30 persons standing in wagons pulled by farm tractor. Hitchhiking is common, even by uniformed police and military personnel.

Accommodations.

Most of the larger hotels are owned and managed by the government (Cabanacon). Some of these are of exceptional quality, but the average standard is not high. We found hotel restaurants usually mediocre. These hotels are not good value for the price. In contrast are Paladars and Casa Particulars. http://www.boomertravelpatrol.com/new-cuba-casa-particular-paladarindex.php In these privately-owned and operated establishments a double room can be had for $20 to $30 per night plus meals. The rooms are small, but clean and usually air conditioned (in government hotels inoperative A/C is common). In terms of atmosphere, the Paladars and Casa Particulars, each unique, are far superior in our opinion.

Music

Live music is everywhere. Most of our lunches where enhanced by small groups playing in the dining room. It was common to hear beautiful traditional music from a 6 or 7 piece band. 

The rhumba and salsa pieces were authentic, rich and melodic. Classical guitar was a particular delight. Catherine bought a number of CD from these groups.

In Conclusion, we enthusiastically recommend Cuba as a touring destination. It is true that the beach resorts are splendid, and a welcome escape from the Canadian winter, but the country has so much more to offer for the active traveler. In fact, we are considering bicycle touring on our next visit, staying at Casa Particulars in the beautiful countryside, and immersing ourselves in the language and culture, away from the well-traveled paths followed by most tourists.

Peter and Catherine, now aboard S/V "Charlotte D", cruising the eastern Caribbean.