Laos

ANCIENT KINGDOMS OF ASIA,

Chapter II; LAOS with CHEERS

Day 5, November 7, 2013

We flew Lao Airlines from Bangkok to Luang Prabang, Laos, to be met by our Laotian Guide, “Cheers”. En-route to our lodging we stopped at the JoMa Cafe, for a cappuccino and sweet, already appreciating the French influences remaining in Laos.

We lodged three nights at Maison Dalabua, nestled around a lagoon with water hyacinths illuminated at night when the blossoms are open. Our room had a deep bathtub, a spacious balcony and was decorated with silk scarves on teak hangers. There was a display of antique silk loom bobbins. They had a delightful restaurant/cocktail area elevated over the lagoon.

Peter preferred noodle soup for breakfast.  As is the Asian style, there was variety to suit any palate.

Luang Prabang is the ancient capital of Laos located on a peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers, and surrounded by green mountains. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and was one of our favorite stops on this tour. Luang Prabang is famous for the more than 30 active temples and other architectural treasures. It is a mix of 19^th-century French Colonial villas and traditional Lao homes. The French influence is present in pastries, coffee, sandwiches and manner. 

We explored the golden domed Phra That Luang (Great Sacred Stupa), a national symbol of Laos built in the 16^th century, with beautiful out-buildings that overlook the Mekong River.

Wat Xiang Thong is a royal temple, the oldest in the city, originally built of wood in 1513, and reconstructed with brick and stucco following a fire in the late 19^th century.

The Tree of Life is one of the enduring legends in the history of religion.  It's history is pan-cultural, always associated with divinity and immortality. For more, check out this link (www.asiaweekguide.com/2012/..../tree-of-life-universal-and-lasting symbol/)

Later, we visited a local crafts shop.  We enjoyed a hands on demonstration of making paper from the bark of mulberry trees, farming silk worms, spinning, weaving, and fabricating clothes from silk.  Some of the women working in this shop bring their young children, who welcomed us with beautiful smiles.

 

A busy, enjoyable day finished up with Happy Hour along the Mekong River.

Day 6, November 8, 2013
We visited the Royal Palace Museum which was built in 1904-09 during the reign of King Sisavang Vong. When the King died in 1959 his son Savang Vattana inherited the throne, but shortly after the 1975 revolution, the young King and his family were exiled to the north and were never heard from again. It has been a Museum since the creation of the Lao People's Democratic Republic.

This adventure was followed by a jolting shift from the extravagant to the sad state of innocent victims of war.  The Center of Medical Rehabilitation endeavors to provide artificial limbs to those still being injured by unexploded ordinance (UXO), left behind from the Viet Nam War, which spread into Laos.  Years after the war, Lao fields and forests are still littered with these hazards, which children think are toys, and farmers plowing their fields unintentionally detonate.  There are many philanthropic groups from around the world which are actively destroying these mines, a slow, expensive and dangerous process. 

As the sun was getting lower, our group enjoyed a "learning and discovery" at the Sisters to learn the proper way to make a Lao toast.

 Our cocktail was made with M-150, soy milk, and rice whiskey.

Ducks were grilled and we learned the ingredients for the famous duck soup.  Every part of the duck is enjoyed, as "smaht" Susan demonstrates.   It was an enjoyable experience.

Transportation takes many different forms: buses, bicycles, motor scooters, ferries, trucks, variations of "Chinese buffaloes" pulling trailers with seats, tuk-tuks and long boats.  Good enough is good enough.

We rode a jumbo tuk-tuk to the Mekong River, “mother of all rivers”, running from China to Vietnam, where we boarded a long speed boat. 

Cheers used some of the time aboard the long boat to enlighten us about the complex history of Laos.

Of course, Peter is always willing to take a turn at the wheel of any boat.

And everyone knows engines appreciate TLC.

Here is the engine of our long boat underway, with the "pilot berth" adjacent.

Notice the fresh lotus blossoms placed on the working engine in appreciation of it's faithful service!

The Mekong River Basin supports 90 million people who cultivate 54,000 square miles in rice. 

We stopped in a village to witness the process of making rice whiskey, sometimes bottled with cobra and/or scorpions for additional “power”.

We had a beautiful ride and lunch on the boat.  We cruised to Pak Ou Cave filled with thousands of Buddha icons.

The caves were first used for religious purposes, when Phi was worshiped, or the spirits of natures. The Lao people first entered the river valley mid-eighth century after moving south from China. It was not until considerably later that Buddhism first spread into the area from the west. By the 16^th century Buddhism had been adopted by the royal families of Laos, and the caves received patronage from then until 1975.

The caves are filled with Buddha statues of many sizes. Pe demonstrated along with Dale, the method of lighting candles and making an offering.  Peter leaves a small Buddha from our OAT group.

Day 7, November 9, 2013

We got up early to experience the daily Buddhist tradition of alms-giving to monks.  This was an unforgettable experience.

 Around 5 am scores of monks from the nearby temples parade solemnly and single file through the streets, collecting food offerings from the citizens who, in turn, receive blessings from the monks. Dressed in traditional orange robes, the monks project a sense of calm and solemnity to the faithful.

After our breakfast, we had a learning and discovery" shopping trip in the big street market.  Some of our purchases would be used as ingredients for our luncheon later.

We then headed for the Tin Keo Village by bus. We stopped to see water buffalo working in the terraced rice fields.

 In the village we were met by the local chiefs who gave us a “learn and discover” of a black-smithy operation, and the construction of rat and bird snares.

  We helped the economy of the re-located Hmong.  Some of these carvings were from teak, ebony and rosewood.

We visited The Keo Elementary School supported in part by Grand Circle Foundation and our OAT fees. We were greeted by the students who took our hands and led us to seats with them in the classroom. They sang their national anthem and we sang, “If You're Happy....”. 

 They demonstrated their math and letter/word recognition skills, and two of our group volunteered to lead them in classroom activities. We provided snacks and some school supplies.

This is one teacher in one classroom for this range of ages.

We were impressed with the developing abilities of the children, including their nascent English language .

Our OAT group supports this local school.

After our adventure with the school children, we were introduced to the Village Chief's family.

We enjoyed a home-hosted lunch at which we helped prepare vegetable tempura, and shrimp-fried rice.

 We had the opportunity to eat fried crickets, washed down with rice whiskey containing pickled cobra and scorpion in the bottle. Guaranteed to make “Johnny-Jump-Up”.

We walked to a re-enactment of a Hmong Village. The Hmong are a hill tribe that formerly supported themselves growing opium, now re-located to this valley, learning new employment skills. A local answered questions and performed a traditional music/dance ceremony and invited our group to participate, which Peter did. We bought souvenirs from the community.

Next we visited the Kuang Si Waterfall in the adjacent forest which was beautiful and refreshing. The falls spill off limestone cliffs into a series of tiered pools. We lounged around the baby-blue waters and enjoyed the fish cleaning dry skin from our feet.

The Waterfall Park is also a refuge for the Black Bear Rescue Foundation. We learned that, unfortunately, various body parts of Asian black bears are valued as aphrodisiacs and “tonics”. Consequently, adult black bears, though “protected”, are poached, often leaving young to fend for themselves. Some of these are rescued and housed here.

Our days visiting Laos continues to be one of  contrast.  We visited a nice restaurant known for its Laotian dancing and music.  Catherine was introduced to the Lao violin. Dinner was excellent.

Day 8 November 10, 2013

We flew from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, the capitol of Laos, with Laos Airlines arriving in time for lunch.

Later, several of our group enjoyed a massage while others went to the market.

Peter and I shopped for silk and silk-cotton items, and other souvenirs to bring home.

Day 9, November 11, 2013

We explored Vientiane with a visit to Patuxay Victory Gate Monument; resembling the Arch d'Triumph of Paris.  We passed the Lao White House and enjoyed some unusual wood carving.

Later we visited the Haw Phra Kaew (House of the Emerald Buddha) and Wis Sisaket, the oldest monastery in Vientiane, which dates back to 1818. The temple contains a total of 6,840 Buddha statues in varying sizes and positions. The following day was a holiday of the Full Moon, so street vendors, military security and monks were busy in preparation.

Anyone can be a monk for as long as they wish starting from about fourteen years of age.  They dress in orange robes, the novices have one shoulder uncovered.

We enjoyed a stroll along the waterfront watching everyone relaxing as the sun set.



Of course, there was a market where you could buy just about anything.  Catherine was attracted to a beautiful skirt which she hopes to wear for an upcoming special event!

Then we enjoyed a home-hosted meal of catfish, calamari, and morning glory salad.

We were reminded that small actions, such as releasing a bird from a cage, can give great pleasure. It is common for a bird to be caught, placed in a cage, sold to be released with the hope of a wish or prayer fulfilled.

We are a small world after all as different as our cuisine, language, culture appears.  Catherine even found a relative of her Tweety  there.

Memories of the Mekong River.

In conclusion, we would like to say we missed all the winter season fun in Cape Breton and elsewhere in the Great White North.  There were some difficult times to be sure.

posted by Catherine and peter from Grenada, West Indies