Report from the Appalachian Trail, Harper's Ferry

Catherine and Peter hiked with Steve (aka, “Flatlander”) along a section of the Appalachian Trail from Morgan's Mill Road, VA to Harpers Ferry, WV from Sept 23 to 27, 2014.

The day before commencing our hike, we visited the office of The Appalachian Trail Conservancy to purchase a copy of the 2014 Through-Hiker's Guide for our friend, Peter, of Cape Breton. While there we met hikers stopping for internet, laundry, and showers. There is also a school for “wannabe through-hikers”.

We joined Steve at the Econo Lodge in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia on Sept 22 after Michael and Lindsay's wedding in Gananoque, Ontario. Our shipments of freeze-dried foods awaited us at the Econo Lodge . To reduce the monotony of a freeze-dried diet, we ordered varied dishes from three companies (Mary Jane, Backpacker's Pantry and Packit Gourmet). We recommend Backpacker's Pantry and Packit Gourmet! Steve enjoyed Mountain House.

Steve had arranged for a shuttle from Harpers Ferry to the crossing of the Appalachian Trail by Morgan's Hill Road. Our driver, Mark, is a “through-hiker” who has now settled along this part of the Appalachian Trail and provides guide services. We recognized the truth of his saying, “the hardest part of your hike will be the first day”.

Indeed, the first part of our hike was the “roller-coaster”, a steep up-and-down section that required 2 ½ days to traverse. Because Catherine was only 3 weeks recovering from arthroscopy of her knee, we planned for short daily hikes, 5-7 miles/day. It was wise planning!

Click on this short video to get an impression of the terrain on the "roller coaster".

It was a joy to awake in the forest each morning!

About 0900 we departed our campsites in the forest, after a hearty breakfast. Some 2-3 miles later, around noon, we were eager for lunch, which was always leisurely.

Each day's hike ended about 1600, leaving daylight for setting up camp (pitching tents) and enjoying sunset and dusk around campfires. There was much lounging about the fires. Peter carried a pint of Jim Beam and Catherine her blackberry brandy.

We named each of our campsites by a characteristic feature.


Sept 23 Flat Top Camp
Sept 24 Sherwood Forest Camp (down in a wooded valley)
Sept 25 Baby Bear Campsite (you can guess why it got it's name)
Sept 26 Seven Mile Bend Campsite (our last camp)
Sept 27 Econo Lodge

Peter continued his practice of constructing "Fairy Houses" along the way.

Numerous hikers met us from the north, mostly male, young and fit "through-hikers". They started in Mt. Katahdin, Maine, in May and expected to be at the Georgia Springer Mountain terminus by mid November. Most “through-hikers” were solo, and few could stop and chat, as they had tight schedules and walked fast. Most were wearing shorts and had light packs. There were only two other men in our age group. I counted the females.... five with packs. Three were weekenders. Two females were “through-hikers” in the company of men.

Catherine's advice to anyone looking for young, fit male company is to start hiking!

The weather was marvelous. It rained only one night and into the next morning. After the “roller coaster” the terrain was easier and our progress increased toward 7 miles/day.

Spectacular long views were our rewards for reaching mountain peaks.

Access to overlooks sometimes required a rock scramble; "no pain, no gain".

Wildlife observed included a variety of birds, deer, and bear.  However, earthworms and spiders were the only wildlife to cooperate with our photography!

We passed two attractive Trail Centers: Bear's Den and Blackburn Trail Centers. We stayed at neither, preferring our forest tenting.

The Bear's Den was a private mansion donated by a wealthy obstetrician who enjoyed hiking. It is a lovely stone building close to the trail, staffed through regional and national ATC funds and isdesignated for backpackers only. They offer bunks, pizza, and Ben and Jerry's ice cream for $20 US/night. They also have showers and a laundry.  More details at www.bearsdencenter.org.

The Blackburn Trail Center consists of three attractive building, including a hostel. http://www.patc.net/PublicView/Custom/Volunteer_files/Blackburn_Trail_Center.aspx

The forest was lovely, with many sections of large, old growth timber.

Many forest mysteries received out attention, e.g., "How do vines, which are not self-supporting, manage to span distances of open space to reach the tree tops?"

We marveled at the impressive mountain geology, including glacier-carried boulders ("erratics"), slip-faults, igneous intrusions, metamorphisms; all part of tectonic geomorphing.

We passed the sign marking the approximate mid-point of the 2185 mile long Appalachian Trail.

None of us were injured along the way, but we moved slowly in the mornings. Aspirin, ibuprofen and Tylenol were our friends. No blisters, only some bruised toe nails. Steve says he noticed us making “old-people-sounds”, i.e., groaning as we got up from the ground. Catherine made use of a knee brace with reflective metal supports, making her appear the “bionic woman” in some of the photos. Steve had generously bought the brace for her. We made a companionable and pleasant group of hikers.

On our final day of hiking we entered The Battery overlooking the town of Harpers Ferry. The remains of the Civil War trenches and battlements were intriguing. As we were contemplating these, a Civil War Re-enactment commenced in the valley below, complete with cannon fire. It was a magical time to be standing among the overgrown remains of The Battery with cannon fire echoing up from the valley below. It was as if we had been transported back in time!

We completed our hike by crossing the Potomac River to return to the Econo Lodge.

The first showers after five days of hiking where most welcome before joining Steve at the Mountain View Diner for some country cooking that was not freeze-dried!   We returned to a parking lot full of motorcyclers from Pennsylvania. Catherine thought her little yellow "Tweety" looked sweet parked among the Harleys.

Also at the Econo Lodge we met a group of bicyclists pedaling from Washington accompanied by their support van.

That night Peter and Catherine attended a local Bluegrass Festival walking distance from the Econo Lodge.

The next morning after breakfast with him, we said goodbye to Steve. We stayed another day in Harpers Ferry and did a walking tour of town to visit the National Historical Center, learning about the geology, development, trains, John Brown's Raid on the Armory, the role in the Civil War. There was also a lovely lunch with local draft beer.

This is a beautiful section of The Appalachian Trail (www.appalachiantrail.org) with the added attraction of the town of Harpers Ferry (www.historicharpersferry.com) with it's many scenic and historic features.

“We believe that life is like a blank canvas, ready to receive as much paint as one wishes to throw upon it!” Danny Kaye, U.S. Singer and Actor

Ladybug and Eunoia (Our Trail Names)