Report from the Croatian Coast and Islands

We enjoyed self-touring by car along the coast of Croatia and some of the off-lying islands prior to a guided-tour with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT, www.Oattravel.com ). Ryanair carried us from Dublin, Ireland, across the Italian Alps to Zadar, Croatia, for 65€ each.

Encouragement to explore the Croatian Islands came from sailing friends from Croatia that we met in the Bahamas, our family doctor and his wife who described it glowingly and shared photos of their trip, and an OAT friend, who drove herself and managing well in English. From these friends we received recommendations on sights and local cuisine, as well as assurances that we did not need pre-booked accommodations. We thank them for their accurate descriptions.

The coastal highway south from Zadar is highly scenic, and led to a small waterfront community, Brodarica, across from the island of Krapanj. We settled into the Guesthouse Zlatna Ribica (60 €/night), with view of the harbour from our balcony, where we enjoyed our first biella wine and Karlovacko beer.

The included breakfast at Guesthouse Zlatna Ribica included yogurt, muesli, juice, tea, white latte, mojarka, soft-boiled eggs, prosciutto, another ham, salami, illigren cream cheese, hard cheese, pastetso, and a selection of lovely breads. Such a lovely breakfast selection was typical of our lodgings throughout Croatia.

This was our base for two days of local exploring. We picked up a few important words of Croatian, "hvala” (thank you), “dobra dan” (good day), and “do videnja” (goodbye).

There is a passenger ferry between Brodarica and Krapanj Island. The ferry was laden with fresh flowers in preparation for the All Saints Day decorating of cemeteries. The small (240 persons), ancient community of Krapanj is surrounded by a high city wall.

There are no automobiles on the island. Lovely gardens are tended by elderly women in black dresses and kerchiefs, bent over to cultivate with short-handled hoes. Historically, the community was supported by sponge diving and olive cultivation. Summer tourism is more important now.

In Sibenik, we visited the Cathedral of St. Michael and it's pearl, the baptistry. The Cathedral was constructed over 105 years (1431-1536), and consecrated in 1555. It is a UNESCO world heritage site since 2000 when the dome was renewed after shell damage in the war of 1991. Repairs continue to this day.

The Fortress of St. Michael, on the hilltop overlooking Sibenik, was built during the 13^th to 18^th centuries. Archeological excavations revealed prehistoric and medieval remains. Two city walls extend from the fortress to the coast to terminate at a large Gothic gate. The renovated Fortress is now a modern outdoor theater hosting summer events with 1077 seats.



On our way to Split the next morning we passed numerous charter yacht marinas. Seems like wonderful territory for charter sailboats! We may come back to do just that.

Along the coastal highway there are warnings of wild boar, “camps” (RV parks), olive groves, stone-walled gardens, vineyards, and prominent slip-faults (parallel ridges across the mountain sides).

We boarded a Jadrolinja car ferry from Split to the island of Vis. On the ferry we met Mara, soliciting her Vis apartment for rent. We were pleased she approached us, for we had no advance lodging reservations anywhere on this trip. Communication was achieved with the very few shared words.

Without guidance from Mara we would not have found her apartment, which is accessed by walking up into the narrow, convoluted lanes of the old town, where no cars can enter. We followed Mara up hills and stairs to her studio apartment with a balcony shaded with grape vines and a waiting bottle of homemade wine. Of course, Mara joined us in a glass. Later she brought us other treats (homemade schnapps and lemons for our morning tea). A perfect hostess. Look for her on the ferry to Vis!

 

Vis is a remote island in the Croatian Adriatic, famous for its wine. Visitors find the towns of Vis and Komizo rich in history and wild mountain scenery. It is the farthest island from the central Dalmatian coast. It served as a base for Yugoslav Military during the socialist years and was closed to foreign visitors from 1950 to 1989. There was an underground submarine base. Tito was proud of his submarines.

We were amazed to find, while exploring remote shorelines, evidence of explosions (shelling?) in coastal rock. There are old bunkers, gun platforms, and remains of a large airfield. Older forts from days of British rule during the reign of George III (1812) were renovated for the 1950's military.

During those decades of military occupation Vis was abandoned by much of the local population. This history has made Vis today a popular destination for travelers seeking an unspoilt and authentic pocket of the Adriatic.

It is a step back in time, frozen as it was in 1950. It produces some of Croatia's best wines (white vugava, and red plavac). The two towns on the island of Vis are picturesque 17^th century settlements overlooking pebble bays lapped by crystal-clear Adriatic waters.

Vis town is perfect for strolling the waterfront, shopping along the way for smoked Tripan (Trapist) cheese, pastetsa (like liverwurst), rustic loaf bread, local oranges, eggplant and pomegranate , salami, and prosciutto. Of course, the island's wines are readily available. ATMs worked flawlessly throughout Croatia.

We decided to splurge for Roki's seafood “peka”, a traditional way of cooking. A cast iron bell seals in the flavours and juices as meats, fish, octopus and vegetables cook up to three hours on a bed of charcoal. Unique presentation of delicious food, accompanied by fine local wine, mali placa.

We did not object to the cat in the dining room, because it was hard at work.

On our second day on the island of Vis, after our early morning walk, we drove around the island, and explored the town of Komiza, stopping for beer and wine outdoors in the ancient square.

On the way back to Vis town we chanced upon a delightful restaurant overlooking Komiza Bay, Pojada, where Peter once again took notice of an outdoor kitchen. We enjoyed an aperitif "orahovac" (Dalmatian green walnut wine). This was followed by grilled squid and bocad'or (a local fish, “golden mouth”) with green salad.

Our time on Vis was spent wandering without specific destination. We discovered lovely harbours, the nudist beaches, saw a large conger eel brought to shore, herring for sale from the fishing boats, and stopped for coffee with local elderly men heatedly discussing their favoured “futbal” teams. “Barcelona! No, Liverpool!”

Back on the mainland again, we happened upon two monumental oriental plane trees (trunk diameter 3.66 m), brought to Croatia as seedlings by Captain Antunov from Constantinople in the 15^th Century. They survive to this day in what is now the Trsteno National Botanical Heritage Garden.

We drove further south along the coast to Makurska, arriving late. It is a scenic location, with mountains rising steeply from the gravel beach. Nevertheless, Makurska was disappointing, to us . It is, for us, too large of a town, with too large, modern “luxury”, hotels. We found economical lodging (“Zimmer”) for the night, but, unfortunately, the hosts smoked in the downstairs kitchen open to the stairwell. There was a nice dinner at Ivo Restorans, where several young couples amused us by texting throughout their “romantic” dinner. There was an appetizer of Coquille St. Jacques (with few scallops), and main course of grilled squid, spinach and potatoes, plus a three-seafood ravioli with creme sauce and basil. Digestif was a plum liquor.

In the morning, after a bakery (pekarna) stop for pastry, coffee and tea, we continued south, clearing in and out with customs and immigration to cross the narrow coast of Bosnia-Herzegovina and back into Croatia. We drove towards the Peljesac Peninsula viewing Mali Ston Castle and Wall for miles before arriving. We enjoyed lunch at Vila Koruna, Mali Ston. Because there are many oyster, mussel and other shellfish farms in this area, we decided to fortify ourselves with oysters on half-shell, oysters gratinee and grilled vegetables. We received gratis souvenir packets of sea salt from the Ston saltworks.

Catherine made plans to lead the Ston Wall Marathon.

On to Korcula from Obrejic aboard another Jadrolinja ship. This is the greenest, most independent and interesting of Croatia's 1,000 islands. Korcula is well-known for Korcula Old Town, the Moreska sword dance, and reputed birthplace of Marco Polo.

Found delightful lodging for two nights in Old Town Korcula, on the waterfront, with host, Petar Gatti. He welcomed us with anisette from the nearby town of Bloto.

No breakfasts included, but with refrigerator and kettle we took care of ourselves (hvali, feta in olive oil, bread, chocolate strudel, mandarin oranges and tea).

M/V Artemis (Grand Circle Cruise Line) docked at the Quay of the Old Town. Seems to accommodate about 50 passengers.

The Queen Elizabeth entered the harbour and anchored off. Soon multitudes of passengers came ashore. We discovered that very few of them walked more than a few hundred feet up the steep alleys of the Old Town, so that is where we went. We attended Mass at St. Mark's Cathedral. Well, standing room only, so we stayed a few minutes anyway. The Marco Polo Museum is interesting. The most pleasant time to walk around Old Town on that day was after 1630 when cruise ship customers were back on board their floating hotel.





Now it was time to leave Korcula and continue our way slowly towards Dubrovnik. We took the return ferry to Obrejic stopping at vineyard Tonci Madirazza where we were introduced to Dingac 2010, among other fine local wines.

Another dinner in Mali Ston.  This time at Restoran Bota Sare, which is built inside a domed former salt warehouse. 


Vishyna, our waitress, showed us to the wine cellar to choose a delicious local wine. 





Our meal was a dish with assorted shellfish, new to us and farmed locally. Vishyna introduced us to Klapa music by playing a CD by Tomislav Bralic “Klapa Intrade”. Click on this link Zasto uvik pivan – Tomislav Bralic I klapa intrade (TVSPOT) . In addition to beautiful music, this link highlights beautiful Croatian scenery and handsome Croatian men!

The Apartman Stara Kuca is nearby. We happened upon it while exploring inside the 700 year old city walls of Old Town Mali Ston. Proprietor Nada speaks no English, so Cousin Milo interpreted. Located in a 500 year old building, it is a modern two bedroom apartment with in-floor heating, clothes washer/dryer, dishwasher, TV, CD player, fancy Gorenje stovetop, and refrigerator/freezer. And it came with a bag of clementines from Nada! It was cold, rainy weather, so we booked for two nights.

Next morning, after fruit and tea at the Mali Ston apartment, we were off to the Ston pekarna for pastries, coffee and internet . The majority of this rainy, windy day was spent planning our coming trip from Ljubljana to Venice and beyond. We went around another corner for a three-hour Croatian lunch: wine, fish pate, oyster soup, breaded oysters, pork shish kebab and garden salad.

Goodbyes ("hvala” and “do videnja”) and a gift of a Canadian Flag lapel pin to Nada. Of course, we gave and received hugs and kisses to send us on our way to Dubrovnik. We dropped our car hire and checked into The Grand Hotel Villa Park, where we met Edo, Trip Leader Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), and our traveling companions for the second week of our Adriatic Adventure.

The OAT tour “Crossroads of the Adriatic” will be the subject of our next posting.

Catherine and Peter, now aboard S/V “Charlotte D” in the southern Caribbean.

“Bring ideas in and entertain them royally, for one of them may be the King”.

Mark VanDoren, United States poet and scholar.